Long-term aged sake specialty store & bar “Aged Koshudokoro”
Long-term aged sake research group The past, present, and future of aged sake

INDEX
- I've been hearing a lot about Japanese sake called "aged sake" recently! ?
- A modern pioneer of aged sake
- A popular drink during the Edo period
- Why has old sake research been revived again?
- Activities of the Aged Sake Research Group
- Background of the establishment of the Long-term Aged Sake Study Group
- Charms and types of aged sake
- What is the recommended way to drink it? (by type)
- What dishes do you recommend?
- The oldest aged sake in existence
- Can I make aged sake at home?
- It seems that aged sake is less likely to cause sickness?
- The future of aged sake
- Future tasks
- Some of the vintage sake we sampled this time
I've been hearing a lot about Japanese sake called "aged sake" recently! ?
Do you know about old Japanese sake? Sake and sake are stored and aged for 3 to 10 years, sometimes over 20 years, and the color shines in various colors such as amber and ruby, and it has a sweet aroma and taste like caramel and honey, and a sweet aroma and taste like rice. It is gaining popularity due to its mature aroma, complex aroma, and rich taste.
There are no rules or regulations regarding the number of years or temperature at which sake is aged, and there are some that happen to be left in the warehouse, and when you drink it, you discover that it's delicious! There are those that are aged at freezing temperatures (around minus XNUMX degrees Celsius), where enzymes are said to hardly work, and those that are heated to high temperatures in hot springs.
A modern pioneer of aged sake
Do you know about the Aged Sake Research Group, which was established about 60 years ago to quickly realize the appeal of aged sake?It was established in 1985 as a voluntary association of sake brewing companies and others, and currently has 47 members (27 sake brewing companies and 20 alcohol sales/restaurant companies).We continue to spread the charm of old sake.
Click here for the person introducing this article

- Mr. Ito, Executive Director of the Long-term Aging Sake Study Group
-
ProfileHe is also the owner of Aichi-ya, a liquor store in Kanagawa Prefecture that has over 15,000 bottles of aged aged sake, and also runs the long-aged aged sake specialty store and bar, Jyuju Koshudokoro, located in Shinbashi, Tokyo.
Profile
Jun Ito
Secretary General, Long-term Aged Sake Study Group
Owner of Japanese sake and aged sake store Aichiya (Aichiya LLC)
Owner of a Japanese sake bar/aged sake restaurant
As the third generation liquor store owner, we promote the appeal of aged sake.Realizing the importance of storing sake, he stored approximately 15,000 bottles of old sake. The company also has a "sake concept as an asset" to pass on to the fourth and fifth generations.According to him, ``Once it becomes popular, it's too late.''
We asked him to tell us about the current status of aged sake, which has been gaining momentum recently.
A popular drink during the Edo period
When I started this research, I was sometimes told things like, ``Isn't this just an imitation of wine?''However, according to literature, there existed a culture of enjoying aged sake in Japan until the Edo period.However, due to social conditions and tax regulations, aged sake suddenly disappeared during the Meiji period.Since then, due to post-war tax reforms, etc., aged sake has gradually been revived in the market, but it is still not as well-known as ginjo sake.It's not like you can easily buy it at any liquor store.
Why has old sake research been revived again?
I heard that in the XNUMXs and XNUMXs, the price of rice, the raw material for alcoholic beverages, began to drop, leading to overselling of alcoholic beverages.Small sake breweries are facing a war of attrition, becoming exhausted and in danger of collapse.I believe this was also the time when acreage reduction policies were introduced.If things continue like this, small sake breweries and liquor stores will go bankrupt.It began in an era when there was a call for the development of high value-added products.Therefore, two trends began to emerge: Ginjo sake with its gorgeous aroma and old sake with a heavy feel, and many breweries followed the trend toward Ginjo sake, which continues to this day. (Of course, each brand has its own policies and management strategies, such as those who promote pure rice sake, apart from the trend of unreasonable value-added sake.) Then, a very small minority became obsessed with the wonders of old sake.When thinking about business, I think that ginjo sake, which can be easily added to high value by grinding the rice, makes more sense commercially than old sake, which takes years to develop its commercial value. .
Activities of the Aged Sake Research Group
Our study group defines aged aged sake as ``sake, excluding sugar-added sake, that has been aged in the brewery for more than three years from the upper tank (squeezing the mash). We issue a certification seal* (other conditions apply).In 17, we started the "2005 Year Sake Storage Project*" to commemorate the 20th anniversary of our research group's founding.Our wish is to convey the appeal of Japanese sake to people XNUMX years from now in a tangible form.In addition, various knowledge has been accumulated through continuous observation and sensory evaluation (tasting).Recently, the demand for aged sake has been increasing, and we are actively participating and exhibiting at events and seminars.
*Japanese Sake XNUMX Year Storage Project:
Started in 17 as a joint project with the Long-Aged Sake Study Group, the National Alcoholic Beverage Research Institute, and the Tokyo University of Agriculture. Once every 2005 years, we observe and study the changes over time and pass on the appeal of long-aged sake to future generations. A sake tasting event and a mariage dinner were held.
*Mature mark certification system: Click here for details http://www.vintagesake.gr.jp/aboutus/2093
Background of the establishment of the Long-term Aged Sake Study Group
It was founded by the late sake brewery consultant.Nobuo Hongo, Hiroshi Yanai, former managing director of Fukumitsuya Co., Ltd., the late Takeyoshi Honda, chairman of Honda Shoten, the brewer of "Ryuriki", Junji Sato, president of Tohoku Meijo Co., Ltd., the brewer of "Hatsuko", and brewer of "Masamune Daruma". Shiraki Zenji, chairman of Shiraki Kosuke Shoten, and others noticed that the sake aged in each brewery had different tastes and colors, so they brought their own.The colors alone are ruby, gold, lapis lazuli, amber, light green, golden yellow, etc. They are completely different, and I wonder what is going on inside the sake.I hear that research has started from the perspective of how to communicate this phenomenon and the deliciousness to consumers.
Charms and types of aged sake
It has a variety of charms, including a beautiful and bright color, a sweet and unique aged aroma (a dignified and deep aroma), a soft feel when you put it in your mouth, and a long aftertaste after swallowing, but the most appealing thing is its taste and aroma. Probably due to the richness of variations.The concept and world of sake will further expand.
However, the disadvantage is that there are so many options that it is difficult to convey them to consumers.Therefore, the first thing our research group decided on was the following general type classification.Even now, we evaluate each of these three types.
Type name |
Rice polishing ratio/storage temperature |
Features |
light ripe type |
Highly polished/low temperature aging |
A type that makes the most of the Ginjo aroma |
Medium-mature type |
Highly refined white/room temperature aging |
Intermediate type between light ripe and dark ripe |
Dark ripe type |
Low whitening/room temperature aging |
A type with a dark color and a strong aged aroma. |
In other words, we classify rice mainly based on two axes: ``rice polishing ratio'' and ``ripening temperature'' as factors of change, but in reality, even highly polished rice can have a deep color, like a dark amber color, like a dark ripe type. .In conclusion, it is known that sake with a high amino acid content is easier to age.In other words, if the sake is low-refined, more protein remains and the amino acid content tends to increase.Therefore, rice rice may be more mature than rice suitable for sake brewing.However, whether it tastes good or not is another matter.Sake tastes better when aged, but not all sake becomes better when stored.Don't forget that to make good aged sake, you first need good brewing.Other than that, we also know that increasing the koji ratio* makes it easier to mature.In fact, in 1998, in anticipation of aging, Nanbu Bijin began selling sake made with all koji (malt) to the world, and manufacturers who were committed to aged sake followed suit, and all koji (made with koji) became a bit popular within the aged sake industry. There was also.
*Koji ratio: The ratio of koji used when brewing sake.
*All-koji preparation: Sake made almost entirely from koji and water (each manufacturer has its own interpretation).The reason I say "almost" is because if you don't use rice, rice malt, and water, you can't call it sake under the Liquor Tax Act, so you have to add a little bit of rice as well.It is said to have a strong sweetness, turn a deep golden color in three years, and ripen extremely quickly.
What is the recommended way to drink it? (by type)
The light ripe type retains the characteristics of ginjo sake, so it is recommended that it be served chilled (XNUMX-XNUMX℃).However, don't let it get too cold.Dark and medium-ripened types are generally served at room temperature, but depending on the individuality and preference, they can be served slightly chilled or warmed (XNUMX°C) for a wonderfully rich flavor.Unexpected things happen even to us, so I think you'll find many discoveries and surprises if you try different things.
What dishes do you recommend?
Why not try pairing light-ripened aged sake with light-colored snacks (such as kobushime white meat sashimi or kamaboko)?Medium-aged aged sake goes well with oily tempura and fried tatsuta.Aged aged sake has a sour taste and has the effect of refreshing oil.It's like adding lemon to your cooking.Why not pair the richly aged aged sake with umami-rich Gindara Saikyoyaki or Sukiyaki?The depth of flavor of aged sake will take you to heaven.
Negoshian is an original aged sake brand from Aichiya, a liquor store run by Mr. Ito.For the Nekoshian brand, we request old sake from multiple breweries, and this one is from Gifu's Shiraki Kosuke Shoten ``Masamune Daruma''.It has a good balance of sweetness, sourness, and bitterness, and has a well-rounded flavor.The aroma of caramel, which is a typical aged aroma, is also pleasant.
The oldest aged sake in existence
There is a sake that has been preserved for over 46 years at the wealthy farmer Watanabe's residence in Niigata, with additions being made over time. The head of the family tastes the sake once every generation, writes down his impressions, and adds the sake that he thinks is the best in his life.In addition, ``Sweet Pea'' was discovered at Obisho Sake Brewery, the oldest sake brewery in Wakayama Prefecture, and was brewed in the first year of the Showa era.It is said that 17 1689-liter bottles were discovered in the warehouse, and it has been aged for just under XNUMX years.Just on the occasion of the XNUMXth anniversary of our research group's founding (XNUMX), Sweet Pea was aged for XNUMX years, and related parties sampled it. Some people described it as having the scent of cognac and the taste of amontillade.There is talk of opening it again on the XNUMXth anniversary.Although it doesn't exist anymore, the oldest aged sake that I've heard of is Osawa Sake Brewery in Nagano Prefecture.It is said to have been a sake made in the XNUMXnd year of Genroku (XNUMX).In XNUMX, the late Kinichiro Sakaguchi, a doctor of brewing biology, and the late Kinichiro Sakaguchi, who also served as an advisor to our research group.Nobuo Hongo et al.It is said that it was opened during an NHK program.I remember that the National Brewing Research Institute, the predecessor organization of today's National Institute of Alcoholic Beverage, analyzed the ingredients and found that the alcohol content was XNUMX%.
Can I make aged sake at home?
can.Please store in a dark place. We recommend storing it at room temperature rather than in a “cold” dark place.UV rays are said to be harmful, so why not wrap it in newspaper or something and put it in your closet?When you open it, you can feel nostalgic and enjoy the events of that time. (Actually, I personally don't think it's a bad idea to expose it to UV rays to give it a sunlight smell. There are also types of sake in the world that go out of their way to give it a sunlight smell.) Also, try choosing junmai sake with low-polishing rice.If you can get sake called ``Zen-koji Shikomi'', I think it would be easier to enjoy the changes that occur as it ages.Other recommended options are sweet ones, unfiltered ones, and ones with high acidity.If possible, avoid drinking raw sake, and prefer pasteurized sake.Don't think too much about it, just trust your preference and intuition. (Please do so at your own risk.)
Sake suitable for aging by type
Type |
Aging method/characteristics |
Junmaishu/Honjozo/Low-polished rice/Unfiltered rice/Yamahai etc. Sweet and sour sake ↓ Go to the richly matured type |
・Store at room temperature, such as in the corner of a shelf or in a closet. ・Generally, it stops deteriorating after about XNUMX years and is suitable for aging, and is often ready to drink after XNUMX to XNUMX years.You can enjoy the color change from pale yellow to amber to reddish-brown, and after another XNUMX years, it will become ``liberated'' and can be enjoyed from cold to lukewarm. |
Daiginjoshu/Ginjoshu ↓ To the light and mature type |
・For the first year, store it at a low temperature of around XNUMX degrees, such as in the refrigerator, and after a year, move it to a place with a temperature of around XNUMX to XNUMX degrees.・The color does not change much as it ages, only turning a faint pale yellow, but many are ready to drink after XNUMX to XNUMX years.It can also be enjoyed chilled or on the rocks. |
*We do not know whether all sake ages well or not.Unless something goes wrong, unopened sake will not go bad, but try it at your own risk.Basically, sake has no expiration date.
*The long-term aging sake research group refers to the dramatic changes that aged sake undergoes in terms of color, aroma, and flavor over the course of XNUMX to XNUMX years of aging. that's right.
It seems that aged sake is less likely to cause sickness?
For some reason, it is sometimes said that aged sake is characterized by its ability to soothe you after drinking it.In the Edo period's ``Kunmoyo Yogon Monogatari,'' it is written that ``New sake only makes your head drunk. Aged sake makes you feel so pleasantly drunk that your entire body is moistened.''However, I don't think there is any medical evidence yet.If more people drink it, such research may advance.
The future of aged sake
That said, there are still many things we don't understand about the world of aged sake.For example, sweet and sour types tend to ripen easily, but I don't know what kind of acid is suitable for ripening.Of course, the raw materials before making sake, rice, rice malt, and water, are also involved.Recently, GI (Geographical Indication) has been called out from the perspective of exporting overseas, but the most important thing is to pursue the ideal form of ``local sake'', and of course aging is also important. I think it's working.The climate and terroir of the land are deeply engraved in the record of rice.What do local people eat and what flavors do they pair alcohol with?It's impossible to talk about it without considering its cultural and historical background, and it's a bit unreasonable to evaluate the taste based on all of these factors. It can be aged for XNUMX months, and it can be aged for XNUMX years.In other words, the period between pasteurization and cooling is ``warming aging'' even if it is only for a short time.It is common sense to cool the sake as quickly as possible to prevent coloration, but I would like to go beyond conventional wisdom and pay attention to minute changes as I study the taste of sake.It's truly a theme that you can pursue for the rest of your life.
Future tasks
Our research group has a system for certifying aged sake, but I personally feel that it would be better to make it more rigorous.There is a market for alcoholic beverages, mainly in France and the UK, from alcoholic beverages to assets, and there is a world of ultra-high-quality alcoholic beverages where prices are endless, with each bottle costing several million yen.Also, since it is an asset, there are regulations depending on the country, such as whether it is subject to inheritance deductions or not.At that time, certificates become an issue, and I feel that it is necessary to make full use of IT technology such as NFT for traceability and GI such as proof of origin of rice.As mentioned above, aging does not necessarily make everything delicious, and more chemical research and strict control and definition may be necessary.This is a challenge for the future.
Some of the vintage sake we sampled this time
Tamagawa Yamahai Junmai Vintage 2017, produced by Kinoshita Sake Brewery in Kyoto Prefecture, is produced using a manufacturing method from the Edo period, producing about seven times as many amino acids as modern orthodox sake.I thought it would be a heavy taste with a flavor reminiscent of melon or narazuke, but the acidity is clean and refreshing. ``Tamagawa Time Machine Vintage 7'' is sweet with a well-balanced variety of aging elements such as coffee, caramel, nuts, and raisins.It has a somewhat coffee-like flavor that makes you want to eat it over vanilla ice cream.
XNUMX types from Reijin Sake Brewery in Nagano Prefecture.The manufacturing method and brewing year are different.At each brewery that specializes in aged sake, experimental trials are carried out every day.
A comparison of the 2003 and 2001 Kirin Jijoshu sake produced by Kaetsu Sake Brewery in Niigata Prefecture. 2003 has a unique acidic taste.A rich type reminiscent of honey and apricots. The 2003 is more mature and has a woody aroma, but it is crisper and more coherent than the 2001.
Hyogo Prefecture's Honda Shoten ``Tatsuriki Junmai Aged Old Sake Vintage1999'' has a complex aroma.It has a variety of aromas such as straw, hojicha, rice, and cashew nuts, but the bitterness is the finishing touch.It's a skill that has been matured for XNUMX years. ``Ryuuriki Long-Aging Sake J-SALIQ'' is an exotic sake with an elegant aroma centered on wood and vanilla aromas, with a distinctive nutty aroma.The acidity is clean and the outline is well defined.This is a mixture of sherry and Japanese sake.Therefore, the item is liqueur.
Fukui Prefecture's Nanbu Sake Brewery ``Hanagaki Kijo Nenfu XNUMX Years'' is a Kijo sake with a rich caramel aroma.There is also a slight sourness, and the sticky sweetness of dried apricot fruits comes from deep within.You can also feel it in the flavor of mitarashi dango.I want to eat it with pudding!

Aged Old Sake Restaurant (Jukusei Kosudokoro)
- Address
- B2F, Shinbashi Ekimae Building 21, 1-2-1 Shinbashi, Minato-ku, TokyoOpen with Googlemap
- TEL
- 090-7719-1331
- Opening hours
- 17:00~22:00
- Closing days
- Saturday Sunday
- Drinkable alcohol
- *Business hours and regular holidays are subject to change.Please check with the store before visiting. *Cards and electronic money accepted
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