Ask the sake brewery

"Shiho Wajo" sake brewing, which combines the four treasures of "rice, water, people, and Sado". [Obata Shuzo/Manotsuru] takes on the challenge of sustainable regional development

In recent years, when the word "sustainable" has become a hot topic, sustainability is also being emphasized in sake brewing. This time, we spoke with Obata Rumiko, the owner of Obata Sake Brewery in Sado City, Niigata Prefecture, about the "sustainable sake brewing" that the brewery is working on.

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Sado Island, Japan's largest remote island, is located in Niigata Prefecture. It produces high-quality rice even in Niigata, and carries soft water from the two mountain ranges that tower to the north and south of the island. As demand for sake is shrinking nationwide, we spoke to Obata Sake Brewery about their sustainable sake production and community development, including the use of environmentally friendly sake rice and rice grown in rice terraces, and the regeneration of an abandoned school into a sake brewery and the introduction of natural energy.

I spoke to this person

Rumiko Obata, Managing Director of Obata Sake Brewery
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Born as the second daughter of the owner of Obata Sake Brewery. After graduating from university in 1995, she took over the brewery and has been involved in its management as the executive director. In 2014, she started the "School Brewery Project," which renovated an abandoned school in Sado into a brewery. She brews sake using local resources that promote biodiversity and renewable energy from solar panels.

Responsible for revitalizing the region through sake brewing

Obata-san: "Obata Sake Brewery was founded in 1892, and I am the fifth generation sake brewer. In addition to the three main elements of sake brewing - rice, water, and people - we brew sake by harmonizing the four treasures of Sado, the place where it is produced, with the motto of 'Shiho Wajo'. We mainly use rice from Sado, and we make sake mainly using Koshitanrei, which is 'Citrine to Kurashi Satozukuri Rice' certified by oyster shell farming, as well as Gohyakumangoku and Yamadanishiki rice from Sado."

The island says that the presence of the Japanese crested ibis, which serves as its symbol, is indispensable. To protect the environment in which the crested ibises live, the island is working on rice cultivation that coexists with nature. As a result, over 500 Japanese crested ibises fly on the island. In particular, the sake rice Koshitanrei, which is grown by contracted farmer Sado Aida Rice Farming using oyster shell farming methods that utilize the shells of oysters cultivated in the island's lakes, is a type of sake rice that can only be found on Sado. The sake brewed with this rice, Manoteru Miku, has received high acclaim, winning a gold medal at an overseas competition.

"Manotsuru Miku" - Pure rice daiginjo sake with a light and refreshing taste
This sake is unique to Sado and is made using Koshi Tanrei rice, which is certified as "Toki to Kurashi Satozukuri" rice, grown using oyster shell farming methods.
The aroma and rich flavor reminiscent of tropical fruits such as mango and pineapple spreads throughout your mouth. As the name suggests, this is a rich wine that evokes the "arrival of the harvest."

The reason behind reviving an abandoned school into a sake brewery: "We must not let this beautiful school disappear."

Nishimikawa Elementary School stands on a hill overlooking Mano Bay. This school is known as "the elementary school with the most beautiful sunset in Japan," but it was scheduled to close due to the declining birthrate. When the school's charming wooden building was announced to be closed in 2010, the founders wanted to somehow save the school, and this is how "Gakkogura" was born, renovating the abandoned school into a sake brewery.

It is said that the school brewery has become more than just a second brewery for Obata Sake Brewery.
Sado is home to many regional issues, such as an aging population and depopulation. That is why the area is taking on various initiatives to sustain itself, and it has become a place visited not only by people from around Japan, but from all over the world.

Sustainable sake brewing

As Obata Sake Brewery's headquarters brews sake in the winter, the school brewery brews sake in the summer (May to September). All the rice they use is from Sado, certified by the Toki certification program, and grown using oyster shell farming methods. Since 5, they have also been using koshihikari rice from the Shoryu rice terraces in the Iwakubi region of Sado Island. The idea came from hearing from rice terrace farmers that "terraced rice fields are often irregular in shape, so it's hard work, and they're also struggling with a lack of successors."
The idea behind introducing this is to spread the story of the rice terraces through sake brewed with rice from these rice terraces, and to encourage their sustainability.
In addition, solar panels have been installed on the grounds and swimming pool of Nishimikawa Elementary School, the predecessor of the school brewery, to utilize renewable energy. Brewed with rice and energy from Sado, this is a special sake that can only be brewed here.

A system to generate repeat customers

Every June, a one-day workshop called "Special Classes at the School Storehouse" is held here. Sado Island has a diverse history and culture, and is said to be a "miniature version of Japan." While the current situation is that local issues are concentrated here, a place that is at the forefront of issues can also be a place that is at the forefront of problem-solving. This class was started with the idea that if we could get hints from Sado Island, we could use them to address issues in various regions of the island nation of Japan.
The lecturer said,Satoyama Capitalism" is the author ofKosuke Motani, anatomist Takeshi Yoroi, and former APU presidentHaruaki Deguchi, University of TokyoVice-president OfMr. Yuji GendaWe invite 2.3-XNUMX people each year, such as:
Participants in the classes range from high school students to people in their 80s. Learning together with a diverse range of people who would never have met had they not come here creates a chemical reaction.

One-week sake brewing experience program

The sake brewing at the school brewery is carried out by the master brewer and other brewers of Obata Sake Brewery, but it also functions as a place of learning. Each tank can accommodate about four people who want to learn about sake brewing, and they can experience the core process from koji making to the three-stage brewing process over the course of a week.

By the end of the summer of 2024, there are currently more than 19 graduates from 150 countries. Participants have not only gained an opportunity to learn more about sake, but also about Sado, and as a result, many of them have become ambassadors for sake and Sado Island. Another characteristic is that many of them become repeat visitors due to their interactions with local people. There is also an alumni organization, and the network is expanding worldwide.

Sake brewing is about creating a community.

The school storehouse experiments with various initiatives to sustain the local community, and has become a place that attracts people from all over the world.

Obata-san: "When we started the school brewery, we were so engrossed in it that it didn't seem like it was that hard. However, although we initially operated with a liqueur license, in 2020 we were recognized as the first special sake district and switched to sake production. To be honest, it's an old building so maintenance is a lot of work, but there are many things we can do because we're here."

"14 years have passed since we started working on the school brewery. Nishimikawa Elementary School was destined to close in 2010, but has now been reborn as a sustainable place that circulates resources, energy, and people. It is wonderful that Sado, including Toki, is becoming an 'island of regeneration' in many ways. And above all, 'sake brewing is possible only because of this place.' The fact that Sado is healthy is a major driving force that allows us to continue brewing sake. Sake brewing itself is 'manufacturing' that promotes the sustainability of the region, and is closely related to promoting agriculture, securing jobs, and maintaining clean water. We would like to continue contributing even more to the sustainability of the region through sake brewing."

The word "sustainable" has become more common recently. This time, I visited Sado and once again came to understand the meaning of the word "sustainability." Sado has resources and energy, and when we add people and information to them, and create a system that uses and interacts with them, it becomes "sustainable."

I can't wait to see what new things will emerge from Sado in the future.

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Writer Rie Hadano
A PR lady who loves Japanese sake and has the ambition to spread Japanese sake more overseas.
A bilingual announcer who has lived in Singapore for 9 years and also promotes sake overseas.
We deliver a wide range of interesting information about alcohol, including alcohol entertainment information and overseas situations.
Special skills: Shorinji Kempo, English conversation, German (a little)
Favorite type: Kimoto type, old sake

Obata Sake Brewery Co., Ltd.

Obata Sake Brewery Co., Ltd.

Start a business
1892
Representative stock
Manotsuru
Address
449 Manonishimachi, Sado City, Niigata PrefectureOpen with Googlemap
TEL
0259-55-3171
HP
https://www.obata-shuzo.com/home/
Opening hours
9:00-16:00 (Sake brewery shop)
Closing days
Open all year round (brewery shop)

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