A symposium to commemorate the registration of "traditional sake brewing" as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage will be held on January 2025th and 1th, 25, at the Kanazawa Port Cruise Terminal in Kanazawa City. The symposium is entitled "Traditional sake brewing symposium: weaving the artisan's skills and Japanese culture into the future" and is sponsored by the Agency for Cultural Affairs. It was held in Ishikawa Prefecture to recognize the high level of sake brewing technology in Ishikawa and to support areas affected by the Noto Peninsula earthquake and the heavy rains in Oku-Noto.

At the symposium, participants were able to learn, taste, and spread the knowledge about the techniques, history, and culture of traditional sake brewing, as well as experience traditional Ishikawa performing arts, craft making, and experience the cultural charm of Ishikawa through food. Over the two days, over 2 people attended, showing the high level of interest. This article reports on the first day.

A spectacular start with the opening of the sake barrel

At the opening ceremony, Tokura Shunichi, Commissioner-General of the Agency for Cultural Affairs, gave a powerful speech, saying, "Ishikawa Prefecture's Noto Toji are considered one of the four great Toji in Japan, and this region is important in Japanese sake brewing. Furthermore, Ishikawa Prefecture's traditional performing arts, traditional crafts such as Wajima lacquerware, Kutani ware, and Kaga Yuzen, and food culture such as Kaga cuisine are a treasure trove of cultural and artistic resources. The Agency for Cultural Affairs would like to take this opportunity of the registration of traditional sake brewing as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage to promote the appeal of Ishikawa Prefecture both domestically and internationally, thereby supporting the recovery and reconstruction of Noto, and supporting all those involved in Ishikawa Prefecture."

Speaking on behalf of the guests, Governor Hase Hiroshi of Ishikawa Prefecture said, "Sake is something you drink with friends and with your family to talk with. I believe it has been recognized as an intangible cultural heritage precisely because it smooths the way nature, the local climate, and human relationships work."

Shiniemon Konishi, chairman of the Society for Preservation of Traditional Sake Brewing Techniques Using Koji Mushroom, offered his congratulations on the symposium being held in Kanazawa, Ishikawa Prefecture, saying, "In order to develop this traditional sake brewing technique in the future, we would like to uncover the cultural and historical aspects."

After the sake barrel opening ceremony, 2023 Miss SAKE Yamada Kotoko (right) and 2024 Miss SAKE Minami Yuri (left) were served sake. There was a long line of visitors, showing how much attention the event attracted.

Learn about traditional sake brewing

The symposium also featured a panel exhibition and talk session titled "Learn about traditional sake brewing."
"Traditional sake brewing" is one of the cultures that has been rooted in Japan since ancient times, and "sake," "honkaku shochu," "awamori," and "hon mirin," all of which are brewed using koji, are indispensable when talking about food culture. The differences in taste are due to the region's unique climate, people's preferences, and traditional techniques. In the talk session, traditional sake brewers introduced the things they have always valued and their efforts to pass on their techniques.

Naomachi Koetsu (third from the right), advisor to the Federation of Japanese Sake Brewers Toji Associations, honorary chairman of the (Ichi-to) Nanbu Toji Association, and advisor to Tentaka Sake Brewery Co., Ltd., said that the biggest difference between sake brewing across Japan is koji making. "The basis of traditional sake brewing is brewing in a way that suits the region," and that each time it is influenced by sensory aspects such as timing, texture, smell, and climate (humidity).

Tomoko Iwata (right), an appraisal planning officer at the National Tax Agency, also believes that koji is the most important ingredient. "Koji creates the backbone of sake's flavor. The trace components that koji produces are connected to the activity of the yeast that produces alcohol, as well as its characteristics and effects," she says.

Suwa Mikokuzuru Brewery's Chief Brewer Shigehiko Takeuchi (second from the right) says that they have decided on specific numbers as a method of sake brewing that even the younger generation and inexperienced people can use. "We are making new sake by using the five senses and judgment that our predecessors have built up, plus numbers." He says that it is not enough to just believe in the numbers, but being able to tell if the numbers are wrong by touch and smell is also a traditional technique.

Shin'emon Konishi (third from the left), chairman of the Society for the Preservation of Traditional Japanese Sake Brewing Techniques Using Koji Mushrooms, said that fusing new brewing methods that use various data with traditional methods will be an opportunity to pass on the techniques and connect them to the next generation. "We are not just trying to protect what has been done up until now, but as a company we are also researching what we should do to continue into the future. Learning about the cultural and historical background will also lead to the development of traditional sake brewing," he said.

Noto's Revival: Tasting Ishikawa's Sake

A tasting booth was set up at the venue, where 24 types of local sake were available, including sake from Fukumitsuya (Kanazawa City), Kurumada Brewery (Hakusan City), and Kazuma Brewery (Noto Town), which was damaged in the earthquake. It was impressive to see so many visitors enjoying the different flavors from each brewery. One visitor commented, "I came here to drink Noto sake. The sake is delicious, but buying Noto sake is the best way to support the cause."

Matsunami Sake Brewery Co., Ltd. Young female proprietress Kaneshichi

Matsunami Sake Brewery was founded in 1868 (the first year of the Meiji era). It has a history of 160 years in Noto Town, but the sake brewery and main building were completely destroyed in the Noto Peninsula earthquake on January 2024, 1. Currently, in order to preserve the traditional taste, they are not giving up and are aiming to revive sake brewing in the Oku-Noto region.

This time, we will be comparing the different brands of sake: "Oeyama GO Junmai Daiginjo"
With the cooperation of Kaetsu in Komatsu City, they were able to brew the local sake rice Hyakumangoku no Shiro that was retrieved from the completely destroyed storehouse. "'GO' has many meanings, such as a new step, 'Go' meaning the combined efforts of many people, 'Go' meaning the power of a heavy drinker, 'Strong' meaning strength, and 'Hometown,'" says Kinshichi.

With one sip, the fruity, gentle sweetness spreads across your mouth, followed by a moderately dry and crisp aftertaste.

Kaneshichi: "Restoration is still not complete. We don't know if we'll have water again, but we're thinking about starting sake brewing using simple plastic sheets. It may be an experimental process for the next year or two, but we'll keep working hard for the sake of those who are supporting us and waiting for us to make it."

They say that messages of support through online sales are a great source of encouragement.
I may not be able to help directly, but I want to help even just a little by drinking Noto sake and talking about it. Little by little, Noto is moving forward.

Learn, appreciate and spread knowledge of history and culture

In addition to exhibits introducing the reconstruction of Ishikawa Prefecture and the history and techniques of "traditional sake brewing," there was also a corner where you could experience Ishikawa's traditional culture, including painting Kutani ware, watch traditional performing arts, and enjoy Noto ingredients and gourmet food.

A representative from the Agency for Cultural Affairs commented, "We are pleased that so many people came to the event. We hope that this symposium will enable people of all ages to experience the charm of Ishikawa's culture, including not only alcohol, but also its traditional culture and food culture."

Sake is becoming more and more popular not only in Japan, but also overseas. I hope that by learning about sake, more people will become interested in Japanese religious ceremonies, culture, and traditions, so that sake can become a hub of Japanese culture. I want to spread Japanese culture by tasting sake and becoming a force for recovery.

Text: Sake World Editorial Department

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