Hanaharu Sake Brewery is located on a vast 4000m13 site and is equipped with the latest large-scale facilities, including a gigantic automatic koji-making machine, an extra-large tank that can hold XNUMX tons of rice, and a fully air-conditioned storehouse. While they have achieved thorough efficiency that allows for mass production with a small number of people, they also value the traditional brewing method, in which the brewers are involved from the rice growing stage onwards and brew small amounts by hand.
"It's hard work, with a lot of hard labor in the cold and lots of water work, but there's nothing like the joy of finishing new sake," says Junko Kashiwagi, a local Aizu brewer who is fascinated by the joy of sake brewing and is working hard to pass it on to the next generation.

I spoke to this person

Junko Kashiwagi, Chief Brewer at Hanaharu Sake Brewery Co., Ltd.

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He majored in food science at university and joined Hanaharu Sake Brewery as a researcher in 1993. After 10 years of hard work, his wish came true when he was transferred to the manufacturing department in 2002 and has been the chief brewer since 2007.

Shocked by the sight of the brewery, he decided to pursue sake brewing

Hanaharu Sake Brewery is located on a vast 4000m1718 site in Kozashima-machi, a suburb of Aizuwakamatsu City, Fukushima Prefecture, surrounded by rice fields. It has a long history, dating back to its founding in 3 (the XNUMXrd year of the Kyoho era).

"When the brewery was first established, it was called 'Tenmasamune,' which was named after the town of Tenneiji, where the brewery was located at the time. 150 years after the establishment, the brewery was burned down during the Boshin War, but the fifth-generation brewer was quick to rebuild it. He wanted the people of Aizu, who were devastated by the loss of the war, to regain their feelings of brightness like flowers and tranquility like spring. With this in mind, he changed the name to 'Hanaharu.'"
These are the words of Junko Kashiwagi, who was born and raised in Aizu and has been the master brewer for over 15 years.

After graduating from university, he joined Hanaharu Sake Brewery as a place where he could put his food studies background to good use, but at the time he had never drunk sake or even known how to make it. His father, who loves alcohol, encouraged him to get a job at a sake brewery, and by chance, Hanaharu Sake Brewery was the place that accepted him.

However, soon after joining the company, an event occurred that would change Kashiwagi's destiny.
"My first job was to go to the brewery to retrieve mash for analysis, and I was shocked by what I saw there. It was lively, energetic, and the people working looked like they were having fun. That's when I thought I wanted to try it myself, and that's what sparked my interest in sake brewing."
She immediately applied to be transferred to the manufacturing department, but the idea that "women were not allowed" was deeply rooted at the time, and her request was not granted. Later, when the management changed, she was allowed to participate in sake brewing, and after honing her skills at the Sake Academy in Fukushima Prefecture, she was appointed as the chief brewer.

Why we value handmade products even with large-scale facilities

The tank on the far right is a large one for mass production, and the tank on the far left is used for manual preparation. They use a method called "himemeshi preparation" in which rice is made into a porridge-like consistency before being added, and sensors installed throughout the facility to ensure that there is no variation in quality even during mass production.

Hanaharu Sake Brewery is characterized by the coexistence of modern mechanized brewing using large-scale capital investment, and traditional, time-consuming, small-batch brewing. "Originally, we only made mass-produced mechanized sake. But with the changing times, more and more people are choosing higher quality sake even if it's a little more expensive, so we started using traditional, time-consuming brewing methods as well."
Of course, brewing high-quality sake is important, but that is not the only goal. "By brewing sake by hand, we also want to convey the joy of sake brewing to the younger generation. If you use a machine, you put in rice, press a button, and the sake is made according to the settings. But that's not all that's fun," he said. "Honestly, I think sake brewing is very hard work. It's cold, there's a lot of water work, and the work that people often imagine, like putting in the paddle, is only a small part of it. It feels like washing dishes all day. But even so, I'm so happy when a new sake is made. I love seeing everyone tasting the sake with a smile on their face. I do my job because I want young people to cherish those feelings."

The warehouse is lined with rows of alcohol waiting to be shipped.

When asked what he values ​​most in sake brewing, he answered without hesitation, "The atmosphere of the brewery." "No matter how hard you work alone, you can never make good sake. Since we make sake as a team, it's important that everyone has the same feelings when making sake. Strangely enough, when everyone is able to work happily, we tend to produce good sake."
Because this is a job that involves working with invisible microorganisms, it makes sense that the atmosphere of the brewery, which is also invisible to the naked eye, also influences the quality of the sake, even though it cannot be logically proven.

Kashiwagi's three recommended brands

Kashiwagi introduced us to three brands that he recommends.

Yuime no Kanade Junmai Daiginjo (photo left) 1,367 yen (720ml)
・Alcohol content: 15% ・Rice used: Regular rice ・Rice polishing ratio: 50%
"This is the sake we made to commemorate our 300th anniversary, and it's our best-selling product. Daiginjo is often thought of as something to drink on special occasions, but we made this sake with the hope that it can be enjoyed as an everyday drink. We made the aroma mild so that it wouldn't overwhelm your meal, while still retaining the flavor of the rice for a crisp taste. At this time of year, it goes well with hot pot and oden."

Yamada Nishiki Daiginjo (center of photo) 3,500 yen (720ml)
・Alcohol content: 16% ・Rice used: Yamada Nishiki from Hyogo Prefecture ・Rice polishing ratio: 40%
"This sake won the Governor's Award at the Fukushima Prefecture Sake Tasting Competition last fall. It was made taking advantage of the characteristics of Yamada-Nishiki rice, such as its soft umami and sweetness. I hope people will enjoy the original flavor of the ingredients with simple dishes such as sashimi."

Tenkyu Junmaishu Yume no Kaori (photo right) 1,650 yen (720ml)
・Alcohol content: 16% ・Rice used: Yume no Kaori from Aizu ・Rice polishing ratio: 55%
"This rare brand is made with Fukushima Prefecture sake rice called 'Yume no Ka' and is only available at authorized dealers. Using Yume no Ka tends to produce a rich, full-flavored sake, so we focused on making the most of that characteristic while also focusing on a sharp finish. Try pairing it with strong-flavored dishes like yakitori."

The soft water pumped up from 80 meters underground is "essential to bring out our flavor." There is no running water on the premises, and all water used for washing rice and dishes is supplied by the groundwater here.

I want to support sake brewing that utilizes the sensibilities of young people

Finally, I asked him what he would like to challenge himself with next.
"Currently, I am involved in rice farming by participating in rice planting and harvesting with contracted farmers. Right now, we are only growing Koshihikari rice, so I would like to try other varieties and increase the opportunities to make sake with the rice we grow ourselves. I want to make sake that can only be made in Kamiashicho, Aizu, where the brewery is located, using the rice, water, and people of this area."
He also has high expectations for the younger generation working in the brewery.
"From now on, I want young people to make sake that makes use of their sensibilities. I'm sure they have ideas about the kind of sake they want to make. I want to help shape those ideas and be in a position to support them. If they can make sake that will connect with the next generation, I think Hanaharu Brewery will become more and more lively."
No matter how much more efficient sake brewing becomes through mechanization, Kashiwagi-san continues to cherish the joy of working by hand that he felt when he first entered the world of sake brewing, and the unity of the team that shares the same passion and makes sake together.
The day when the generation that grew up watching her will become the next core members of Hanaharu Sake Brewery is surely not far off.

Writer: Kanon Urabe

Living in Niigata Prefecture / Sake sommelier, sake sommelier, shochu sommelier
He worked for a government agency supporting the export of food, including sake, and now works as a freelance writer.
I like craft sake that has a pronounced sweet and sour flavor and sake that uses additional ingredients.https://www.foriio.com/k-urabe