Shiga Prefecture designates October every year as "Shiga Sake Promotion Month," and is working across the prefecture to encourage people to enjoy Shiga Sake at restaurants and at home.

The appeal of Shiga sake has been conveyed through various initiatives, including a toast by the governor at the main venue, a raffle for entries based on photos of people toasting with Shiga sake in hand, and a joint tasting event for sake breweries across the prefecture.

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Spreading the appeal of Shiga sake through blended sake! Hear about the collaborative junmai sake project between 31 sake breweries in Shiga Prefecture

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Among these, the "Collaboration Junmai Sake," which has been sold in limited quantities each year only at mass retailers within the prefecture, has become a symbolic project for Shiga sake and is beloved by many fans. Now in its 11th year, this long-running project will come to an end.

We spoke to Doi Kazunari, Secretary General of the Shiga Prefecture Sake Brewers Association, about the background to this and the outlook for the next generation of Shiga sake.

"Collaboration Junmaishu" ends after 11 years

-Please tell us what prompted you to start the blended sake project.

Doi: "It all started when we were thinking about what kind of highlight we could come up with for our joint toast on October 1st, Sake Day. I heard that someone suggested selling blended sake from all the breweries in the prefecture, something that no one had done before, and no one had ever tried to do before.

For the first five years, starting in 2015, we released it in a 4-cup bottle, but in the sixth year, we switched to selling it in 300ml due to the impact of COVID-19. In the seventh year, we shipped 10,000 bottles, achieving our initial goal of the '10,000 Toasts Project.'"

-Do each brewery prepare the raw liquor for blended sake specifically for that purpose?

Doi: "No, we use a portion of the junmai sake sold under each brewery's brand. Each brewery brings in their own brand that they can commercialize, with some water added, and then blends it all together."

-Why are you ending the project now that it's in its 11th year?

Doi: "We decided that through these 11 years of efforts, we have been able to foster exchanges between sake breweries in the prefecture and improve their techniques. The breweries in the prefecture have always had good relationships, but I feel that the exchanges between them have become even more active.

Another reason is that, due to the recent rise in the price of rice, we are no longer able to afford to invest in sake for our projects."

-Has the number of breweries changed in the last 11 years?

Doi: “Eleven years ago, there were 33 breweries. This is the number of breweries that are members of the Shiga Prefecture Sake Brewers Association, but that means that the number has decreased by three in 11 years.”

-How did you go about creating this year's blended sake?

Doi-san: "Initially, we blended brands from each brewery equally, but in 2020 we established a Blend Review Committee and have been blending based on analytical values. As this year will be the last, we went back to our original method and blended brands in equal proportions.

Chairman Matsuse of the Shiga Prefecture Sake Brewers Association also commented that it was a good product, and although it was an evenly blended product, I think it turned out well."

-You have promoted your wine through blends, but are there any examples of individual breweries using blends as a central focus?

"As far as I know, there is no such thing as a 'blended sake.' However, Naminooto Sake Brewery produces a brand called 'Junmai Ginjo Lakeside ALMOST SHIGA,' which is a blend of over 30 types of sake made from rice grown in the prefecture."

This year's label features the character "wa" (harmony), written by calligrapher Makiko Kobayashi, and expresses the harmony of the prefecture's sake breweries and flavors.

The aroma is typical of pure rice sake. The plump aroma of freshly cooked rice is layered with hints of grains such as chestnuts and walnuts. There is also a sweet aroma reminiscent of cotton candy and warabi mochi. When you put it in your mouth, a rich, soft sweetness and umami spreads, and towards the end, a pleasant acidity and richness tighten the whole.

The finish is gentle yet long-lasting. This is a rich, mellow pure rice sake that can be enjoyed at a wide range of temperatures, from chilled to hot. It is a sake that reflects the climate of Shiga, and is a very valuable product.

Promoting Shiga sake through new sake rice produced in the prefecture

-What next step will you take after promoting Shiga sake with the blended sake?

Doi: "Currently, the cultivation volume of the prefecture's sake rice varieties, Ginbukisetsu and Tamae, has been drastically reduced due to severe damage caused by high temperatures. For this reason, we are considering promoting the use of a new sake rice variety, Shiga Sake No. 85, which can be produced stably even in high temperatures.

"Shiga Sake No. 85" has been under development since 2017, and will be planted in a field within the Agricultural Technology Promotion Center this year, with sales of 600 to 800 kg planned. Brewing tests have shown that the sake has a quality similar to that of "Ginbukisetsu," with a smooth, mellow taste."

Source:Developing "Shiga Sake No. 85," a promising mid-season, late-ripening sake rice variety that can be produced stably even in years with high summer temperatures

- Will it be used in this season's construction?

Doi: "We are planning to start brewing at a sake brewery in the prefecture in the new year. The harvest was larger than expected, so brewing may be carried out at multiple breweries, but the situation is still undecided.

We are currently hoping to release a brand using Shiga Sake No. 85 at all breweries by October of next year."

-What is the official name?

Doi: "We asked each sake brewery to submit candidates, and we currently have about 80. We will narrow it down to five, and the final decision will be made by the Shiga Prefecture governor."

Future prospects

-Please tell us about your future prospects as the Shiga Prefecture Sake Brewers Association.

Doi: "Due to rising temperatures in recent years, the environment for sake brewing is becoming more difficult every year. For this reason, we invited lecturers from outside the prefecture to give lectures on brewing techniques. We are working on measures to address situations such as not being able to harvest good sake rice and rice not being able to dissolve due to high temperatures.

As an association, we have set a policy of increasing the percentage of breweries that win awards at the National New Sake Tasting Competition. Of course, we leave it up to the breweries to decide whether to enter their breweries, but we hope that by raising the quality of sake throughout the prefecture, Shiga sake will attract even more attention."

The "Collaboration Junmai Sake," which can be said to be a symbol of the "Shiga Sake Toast Project," has been a challenge that transcends the boundaries of sake breweries within the prefecture, and has conveyed the appeal of Shiga sake to many people.

As its role comes to an end this year, a new stage will be set in which the next generation of sake rice, "Shiga Sake No. 85," will be introduced. The environment surrounding sake brewing is becoming more severe every year, with issues such as climate change and rice issues, but Shiga's sake breweries see this not as adversity but as an "opportunity for change," and are moving forward into the future.

The bonds and techniques cultivated over 11 years of blended sake will likely become the foundation for Shiga sake in the future.

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Writer: Yuki Arai
Born in Shiga Prefecture, currently living in Kyoto City
A freelance writer who conveys the culture and stories of sake. After graduating from university, he got a job at a liquor store in Kyoto, then worked in sales at a food manufacturer before going independent. With Japanese sake as his main theme, he conveys the thoughts of the brewers and the stories behind each glass of sake.
JSA SAKE DIPLOMA, Wine Expert, SSI Certified Sake Master, Sake Studies Instructor