Inner Lake is located on the east shore of Lake Biwa, the largest lake in Japan. There is an isolated rice field called Gonza that can only be crossed by boat. It has been selected as a ``National Important Cultural Landscape'' and a ``Top 100 Japanese Villages,'' and its rich and nostalgic scenery can be said to convey the original landscape of agriculture to the present day.

Since 2008, Gonza has been cultivating ``Watarifun'', which was once called the phantom sake rice. All of the rice grown is turned into sake by Kita Sake Brewery, which has a brewery in Higashiomi City, Shiga Prefecture.

In this article, we cover the rice planting at Gonza that took place on Saturday, May 5th, as well as the efforts made so far. We will report on the production of rice, which is essential for sake brewing!

Gonza, a rice field that can only be crossed by boat

In the past, island-shaped rice fields were dotted around the southeast coast of Lake Biwa, and many farmers used boats to access the rice fields.

▲Gonza aerial photograph from 37 (provided by Mr. Onishi)

However, starting in the 1960s, land was expanded through land reclamation in various regions with the aim of increasing food production.

As a result, many of the island-shaped rice fields became connected to the land and disappeared, but only Gonza, which was geographically difficult to reclaim, has survived to this day as a rice field in the middle of a lake. .

▲Current aerial photo of Gonza (provided by Mr. Onishi)

Even now, the only way to access the throne is by ship, and this applies to both humans and machines.

Everything, including the seedbed and rice-planting machine, is carefully transported by boat.

▲Agricultural machinery transported by ship from land (provided by Mr. Onishi)

Currently, Gonza is registered as a ``Nationally Selected Important Cultural Landscape'' and a ``Ramsar Convention Registered Wetland'' for preserving the original landscape of agriculture.

``Originally we were growing edible rice, but it gradually attracted attention because it was a rare rice field that could only be crossed by boat,'' says Onishi.

Under these circumstances, we decided to focus on efforts to further raise awareness and strengthen Gonza's environmental conservation.

The Shiga Prefectural Agricultural Experiment Station cultivates ``Watarifun'', a pure-line selected sake rice.

In the fall of 2007, Mr. Onishi held a classical music concert called the ``Gonza Concert'' to raise awareness of Gonza. The event had been thought to be a one-time event, but it proved to be more popular than expected and there were requests to hold it the following year.

``It was more exciting than we expected, with 2.5 people coming to the 850-hectare site, but it's difficult to hold a concert every year, so we started a project to see if there was anything we could do to raise the profile of Gonza.'' Mr. Onishi looks back.

At that time, he learned that the prefectural agricultural experimental station was reviving a sake rice called ``Watarifune.''

``Watarifune'' was actively cultivated as a recommended variety in Shiga Prefecture until the early Showa period, but due to its height, it was prone to lodging, and its numbers gradually decreased.

Mr. Onishi has heard that the sake made in ``Watarifune'' is delicious, although it is a variety that involves some risks in cultivation.

``The era has changed from ``quantity over quality'' to ``quality over quantity.'' In this age of convenience, I thought that the value that comes from inconvenience is the best way to focus on the position of power.''

They sell sake grown in Gonza and made using Ferry, and a few percent of the proceeds are used for operating expenses. Sake rice cultivation at Gonza first began in the spring of 2008 with the aim of creating this kind of cycle.

``The rice field that can only be crossed by boat is called ``Watarifune.'' Everyone agreed that it was a perfect name.And since we were thinking about how we could protect our position, it was exactly the time to think of ``Watarifune''. ” said Onishi.

It is said that Gonza was once called ``Oda''.

``I haven't done a detailed analysis, but it seems that the rice grown here has been said to be delicious for a long time.There are also records of important rice being produced as offerings to the gods,'' says Onishi.

It is said that soil conditions have a great influence on the characteristics of sake rice. The special environment of being far away from land and on Lake Biwa must also be working positively for the ferry.

Used as Kita Sake Brewery's brand name ``Gonza''

All of the Watafune grown in Gonza is brewed under the Gonza brand name at Kita Sake Brewery, which has a brewery in Higashiomi City, Shiga Prefecture. This sake brewery is famous nationwide for its ``Kirakucho'' brand.

``At the time, Mr. Kitara Michi, who was the 8th generation brewer, told me, ``It's not about making money, it's about contributing to society. If you're doing it for the purpose of protecting your position, I'll cooperate.'' Of course, making a profit has nothing to do with it.We set the current prices (4-go bottle: 1,600 yen, 3,200-sho bottle: XNUMX yen *excluding tax) because we thought it would be good if the cultivation cost and profit were reasonable.''Mr. Onishi says.

The labels are made from handmade reeded paper. Lake Biwa is famous for its communities of reeds, a grass family plant, but the number of reed beds is currently decreasing. You can feel the attention to detail that goes into the conservation and utilization of reeds.

``There are as many local sake breweries as there are stars all over the country,'' says Onishi. ``At first, I thought it would be fine to continue for three years, five years at most.It's already been 3 years.''Mr. Onishi says.

Every year in March, a toast with the newly created sake ``Gonza'' is held as a ``gathering to enjoy new sake.'' In March 3, which was held for the first time in five years due to the coronavirus pandemic, a total of 5 fans gathered from not only the prefecture but also from the Kanto region and had a great time.

It can be said that the efforts made through Gonza have been a great success in contributing to the local community through sake rice and sake.

I received a gonza using "Watarifune" harvested in 5. When poured into a glass, it has a fresh scent reminiscent of muscat grapes and Kyoho grapes, as well as a relaxing sweetness reminiscent of white peach and banana. The aromas derived from ingredients such as bracken mochi and marshmallow are also strong, giving the impression of being concentrated.

When you take a bite, you can feel the mellow, rounded sweetness and it is very elegant. A rich, complex flavor spreads from the mid-palate, with a strong acidity that lingers in the aftertaste. A very powerful and strong flavor that allows you to fully enjoy the flavor of rice. It's a bottle that can be served chilled or served warm, making it suitable for a wide range of occasions and dishes.

Increase brand value centered on the “Gonza/Suigo Protection and Nurture Association”

In October 2008, the ``Society for Protecting and Cultivating Gonza and Suigo'' was established. The company engages in various event activities ranging from the production and sale of sake.

Some workers wear T-shirts with a design of Shiraou Town, where Gonza is located. ``A lot of people visit Gonza, so I made a set of uniforms,'' she says.

The existence of a successor is said to be one of the reasons why Gonza has been able to carry out its activities for more than 10 years.

"The children who said, ``Why do I have to farm in such inconvenient rice fields?'' are working hard. I'm grateful that they are already thinking about the next generation and are pouring their passion into it.'' says Onishi.

This year's harvest is scheduled for the first half of October. After that, the rice is polished by Kita Sake Brewery and transformed into sake.

``Last year, the harvest was low due to bad weather.I hope to be able to harvest a lot this year,'' says Mr. Onishi enthusiastically.

Gonza fans across the country are now looking forward to the next season. I would like to continue to pay attention to Gonza's efforts and activities aimed at improving brand value.

Writer: Yuki Arai
From Shiga Prefecture/SAKE DIPLOMA/Sake/Shochu master
After working at a liquor store and a food manufacturer, he became a freelance writer. Her favorite type of sake is a rich type that allows you to enjoy the flavor of rice. Her hobbies include drinking, cooking, and traveling.