Various Japanese sake

Japan's sake brewing culture nurtured by the local climate "Commemorating the registration of UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage" Series Part 2

Japan's sake brewing culture is a rich endeavor woven from rice, water, and the skills of craftsmen. From prayers to the gods to deepening bonds between people, traditions rooted in the local climate and lifestyle are still carefully passed down to this day.

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Unraveling the history of sake brewing

Sake brewing has a long history dating back to the Jomon period. Fruit liquor existed in the middle of the Jomon period, about 6000 years ago, and later, with the introduction of rice cultivation techniques during the Yayoi period, sake brewing using rice as an ingredient also began. The Gishiwajinden, written in the 3rd century, shows how sake was widely enjoyed in Japan at that time.

As rice cultivation developed, sake brewed from rice came to be treated as sacred. The custom of offering sacred sake to the gods was born, and sake brewing became established as part of religious rites. This tradition has been passed down to the present day, with Matsuo Taisha (Kyoto Prefecture), Omiwa Shrine (Nara Prefecture), and Umemiya Taisha (Kyoto Prefecture) being the three major shrines dedicated to the god of sake brewing, and still attracting devout faith from sake brewers and sake lovers.

Sacred sake offered to the shrine

In the Heian period, sake became an essential part of imperial court ceremonies and ceremonies, and the sake-brewing techniques cultivated at the imperial court spread to the general public. In the Edo period, the three-stage brewing method and the toji system were established, and sake brewing developed greatly as an industry. Nada in Hyogo and Chita in Aichi flourished as major sake-brewing regions, and the sake brewed there was transported to Edo on special barrel ships, quenching the thirst of the Edo people as "kudari-zake."

In the Meiji era, the development of railway networks allowed the distribution of sake to spread to inland areas, and the Sino-Japanese and Russo-Japanese wars led to an increase in sake breweries all over the country. Sake gradually became established not just as a part of ceremonies and events, but as an integral part of everyday life.

From the Taisho to the early Showa period, sake brewing moved into a scientific era. A series of techniques were developed to improve quality, such as the widespread use of thermometers, the development of rice polishing machines, and the use of high-quality yeast. However, there was a time during the war when serious rice shortages forced the company to prioritize quantity over quality, for example by adding alcohol to increase the amount.

During the postwar period of rapid economic growth, the latest equipment made it possible to make sake all year round, and major manufacturers strengthened their production capabilities and developed into national brands. Later, when consumption slumped following the oil shock of the 1970s, breweries across the country began to focus on brewing sake that pursued the natural flavor and aroma of rice, such as junmai sake and ginjo sake.

These quality-focused efforts have attracted new sake fans, and we now live in an era where a variety of flavors can be enjoyed, including unpasteurized, sparkling, and long-aged sake.

The sake brewery culture preserved

Sake brewing has developed over the years, and it is the sake breweries across Japan that have supported it on the ground. Sake breweries have a long history as places that protect and nurture Japan's traditional culture. At the heart of these breweries are the two important roles of the brewer and the toji, with the brewer as the manager who determines the philosophy of sake brewing, and the toji putting the brewer's ideas into shape with his reliable techniques. Furthermore, the brewers work closely together as experts with thorough knowledge of each process, from steaming the rice to making koji and managing fermentation. It is only through the coordinated cooperation of the brewers that the unique and distinctive sake that is unique to each brewery can be produced.

The relationship between the toji (master brewer) and the brewers who support this sake brewing has built a unique artisan culture over a long history. The work of the brewers, who prepare sake in the cold season, originally began as a job for farmers during the off-season, and they honed their skills while living and eating together at the brewery during the winter. The skills have been passed down from master to apprentice, and the brewery traditions have been preserved across generations.

However, in recent years, due to a lack of successors, year-round production demands, and the demands of the times such as work style reform, many breweries have introduced year-round employee toji systems, or even have the brewer themselves serve as toji.

In addition, modern sake breweries are also facing new challenges, such as a decline in domestic sake consumption and diversifying drinking styles. As a solution to these issues, an increasing number of breweries are focusing on developing sales channels overseas and developing new products that utilize regional characteristics.

A toast with sake

Furthermore, efforts to convey the appeal of sake through tours of sake breweries and events have become more active, and there is also a noticeable movement to pursue a commitment to ingredients, such as growing the rice used in sake brewing.

In this way, modern sake breweries are adapting flexibly to the changing times while cherishing the techniques passed down from their predecessors and the unity between brewers, safeguarding the spirit of tradition while opening up new possibilities and passing on Japan's proud sake culture to the next generation.

The spirit that continues to support Japan's traditional sake brewing

Traditional Japanese sake brewing began long ago as an offering to the gods. Based on the principle of slowly and carefully nurturing the sake over time, since the Edo period, local brewers have developed their own unique approach to sake brewing by dividing up the brewing process into small steps and thoroughly controlling the quality. At the root of this is the idea that "there is no technique better than the ingredients," and they place great importance on the quality of the water and rice.

The traditional method of brewing in the cold season is a uniquely Japanese way of making use of the power of nature. Breweries in each region have nurtured the tradition of sake brewing rooted in the region by creating sake that matches the local climate and cuisine while pursuing qualities such as "a flavor you never tire of drinking," "a crisp aftertaste," and "a smooth mouthfeel."

Sake also plays an important role in daily life, inspiring conversation and strengthening bonds. Cherishing the ingredients, making use of the bounty of nature, preserving the individuality of the region and enriching interactions between people - this is the unchanging spirit of Japanese sake brewing that has been passed down to this day.

next timeSeries 3: "Traditional sake brewing"followed by


Text by Yoko Ishikawa
Freelance writer / Japanese Sake Adviser (SSI) / WSET Level 1 / Born in Tokyo / Living in Las Vegas, USA.
After discovering delicious sake here, he opened his eyes to Japanese sake. Recently, he not only enjoys drinking sake, but also brewing it at home.
Instagram: @lvsakegirl note:@lvsakegirl

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