Hakutsuru Sake Brewery Co., Ltd. is located in Nadagogo, Hyogo, one of Japan's leading sake-producing areas, and boasts the largest shipping volume in the country. Last fall, the microbrewery "HAKUTSURU SAKE CRAFT" was opened in the attached sake brewery museum, which has been generating a lot of buzz. We spoke with Mitsuhiro Ban, the master brewer who creates unprecedented sake using experimental techniques.

A microbrewery opened inside the sake brewing museum

The Hakutsuru Sake Brewery Museum is a sake brewery that was built in the early Taisho period and operated until 1969. Inside the museum, the traditional sake brewing process is exhibited, and the tools used are recreated with life-sized figures of actual brewers. You can learn the basics of sake brewing while touring the highly realistic exhibits that look as if they could come to life at any moment, making it a popular facility that is also visited by many tourists from overseas.

"HAKUTSURU SAKE CRAFT" opened in a corner of the Sake Brewing Museum in September 2024. It is a state-of-the-art microbrewery that contrasts with the traditional image displayed in the museum. In an area of ​​just about 9 square meters, the equipment for washing the rice, soaking, steaming, making koji, fermenting, squeezing, bottling, and pasteurization is compactly arranged, and the interior is open to the public through a fully glass-walled facility.

During our visit, we were able to see the brewing process in action. Inside the brewery, which is kept at the same temperature all year round, Hakutsuru employees put steamed rice into the tanks. At the time of our visit, the sake was being brewed, and through the viewing window of the 300-liter fermentation tank we could see the lively fermenting mash bubbling away.
Next to it, brewing is taking place in small containers. They are testing products made from Hakutsuru Nishiki sake rice grown and harvested at the Hakutsuru Ginza Sky Farm, located on the roof of the Tokyo branch, in preparation for brewing at the brewery from now on.
It's a compact space that would reach capacity if several people were to enter, but as the name "Brewery" suggests, it fully functions as a sake brewery.

▲ Test brewing using our own original sake rice "Hakutsuru Nishiki"

▲The brewer, Mitsuhiro Ban (right), is measuring the sake with a measuring device.

The latest in sake brewing is generously revealed

After completing one section of the brewing process, we spoke with the master brewer, Ban Mitsuhiro.

"Many small breweries focus on 'other brewed alcohol,' but here we mainly brew Junmai Daiginjo sake. Another feature is that I and another person with over 20 years of experience are dedicated brewers involved in sake brewing."

What is the reason for installing it inside the sake brewing museum and making it open to the public?

"At the sake brewing museum, we only exhibit traditional sake brewing methods. But we can't let people enter the factory, so by showing them modern sake brewing here, we can pique their interest. Also, by acquiring the know-how of a small brewery, it will be possible to package the sake and expand to other regions, for example. Some of the customers who have come to visit from overseas want to use the sake in their own restaurants, so we think this could lead to new business opportunities."

We never make the same sake twice

For the time being, Hakutsuru Sake Craft will only be brewing one type of sake each month. They also have a policy of never brewing the same sake twice.
Each brand is a 720ml bottle, with only 200 to 250 bottles. Moreover, it is an extremely rare limited edition sake that can only be purchased at the store inside the sake brewery museum. Three types have been released so far, No. 1 to No. 3, and the prices range from 3 yen to 4,400 yen, which is relatively expensive. Despite this, they are so popular that they sell out within about two weeks from the 7,700th.

“[No.1] uses a type of ginjo yeast that produces an ethyl caproate aroma. [No.2] is a blend of ethyl caproate and isoamyl acetate types, so it has the characteristics of both aromas. [No.3] was made with the intention of submitting it to the New Sake Tasting Competition, and I think it turned out well.”
Ethyl caproate is said to have an apple or pineapple scent, while isoamyl acetate has a banana or melon scent, both of which are typical ginjo aromas. The brewery also operates as a laboratory, challenging itself with unique brewing methods, such as using Hakutsuru's own yeast, which has over 470 varieties that have yet to see the light of day, and if the results are successful, there is a possibility that the brewery will be able to commercialize the product.

Hakutsuru Sake Brewery has always taken on new challenges and has produced a succession of new products. The establishment of Hakutsuru Sake Craft reflects this same spirit.

"I think that taking on new challenges is part of the company's direction. To take an extreme example, there are people out there who say, 'Sake is no good anymore,' but that's not true at all. The sake we make here is expensive, but there are many customers who buy it. There are still many opportunities."

"Sake brewing is really fun!"

To conclude the interview, I asked Ban what sake means to him.

"I've been involved in sake brewing for a long time, so it's my reason for living and one of the few things I'm proud of. I joined this company because I wanted to be a sake brewer, but there aren't that many employees who are actually involved in sake brewing. Despite that, we've been able to achieve some good results. I'm already 60 years old, and I've worked as a factory manager and technical instructor, but I still think that brewing sake is the most interesting thing. It's definitely more fun to do it yourself than to instruct."

Even now that he is an extremely experienced brewer, he is still involved in the groundbreaking project "HAKUTSURU SAKE CRAFT" and enjoys the joy of being able to make the sake he wants to make. "I won't lose to the younger generation!" he says, and his overflowing enthusiasm is apparent.

Regarding the new product [No. 4] currently being brewed, he said, "Until now, we have been making sake, but what we are brewing now is a new attempt. It is based on Junmai Daiginjo sake made from 50% polished rice, and has a faint aroma of hops. But it is still a genuine sake."
I was given a special tasting, and it had a refreshing taste with a light hop aroma. This beer is scheduled to be released on January 1th. It is expected to sell out quickly, so I recommend buying it early.

Writer/Sake Master Eriko Fujita
Expand your world to a sake specialty store in Osaka and encounter a variety of sake and sake breweries. Favorite sakes are Akishika, Ohgi, and others.
Other than drinking, my hobbies include collecting minerals and raising swallowtail butterflies.