The previous"PortugalFollowing on from "Spain," this time we bring you Spain, the land of passion. Spain is a country that captivates travelers with its diverse landscapes, rich culture, vibrant cuisine, passion, sophistication and beauty.
What is the current state of "sake" in this unique food culture? We bring you the latest local report.

A vast country in southern Europe, on the Iberian Peninsula

Spain has a population of about 4800 million. During the Age of Discovery, it prospered by acquiring many colonies in various parts of the world, including the Americas, and as a result, many countries in Central and South America are still Spanish-speaking today.
Spain is one of the few European countries with an area larger than Japan (about 1.3 times that of Japan), and occupies most of the Iberian Peninsula. Located on the southwest side of the rugged Pyrenees Mountains that border France, most of the country is the vast Iberian Plateau. With an average elevation of about 700m, it continues to neighboring Portugal to the west. The coast of the northwestern Galicia region is a typical ria coast, and the name of this coastal topography comes from the Spanish word "ria," which means inlet.

This time, we visited two areas by train, the Iberian Plateau and the "Honke Rias," to explore the food culture and the sake situation.

History has colored food culture

Spain's food culture has been shaped by its historical background and rich natural environment, and has been heavily influenced by the Roman Empire, Islamic dynasties, and Christian kingdoms.

During the Roman period (1st to 4th centuries BC), olive cultivation and wine brewing developed, forming the basis of the Mediterranean diet, while during the Islamic period (8th to 15th centuries), almonds, citrus fruits, spices, and rice were introduced. During the Age of Discovery (15th to 17th centuries), tomatoes, potatoes, and chili peppers from the Americas revolutionized food culture.

Spain borders both the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea and has a diverse range of climates, so cuisine varies from region to region.
In the north (Basque Country, Galicia, etc.), seafood is abundant, and there are many dishes using octopus, monkfish, and shellfish. In the center (Castile region), the temperature difference is drastic, so dishes using lamb and pork are prominent.
On the other hand, the Mediterranean coast (Catalonia, Valencia, etc.) makes generous use of olive oil and fresh seafood, while the warmer southern part (Andalusia region) has developed the cold soup "gazpacho" and spicy dishes influenced by neighboring Morocco.

Spanish cuisine, which makes use of the produce from the mountains of the Iberian Peninsula and the seas of the Mediterranean, is a kaleidoscope of flavors. In 2010, it was registered as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO.

Sake is enjoyed together with local cuisine

Spain's national drink is wine. It's meant to be enjoyed with food and conversation. Sangria, a drink made by mixing wine with juice and topping it with fruit, also originated in Spain.
Wine from the Iberian Peninsula was highly valued during the Roman Empire, and people continued to drink wine even under the Islamic rule. The soil is perfect for growing grapes, and there are more than 400 varieties grown throughout the country!

Spanish alcohol situation

Another characteristic of drinking in Spain is that great importance is placed on pairing with food (mariage). The climate and soil of the land give the wine its own character, and it harmonizes with local ingredients. Here are some concrete examples.

① Extremely fresh seafood and white wine – Bigo

Vigo, located in Galicia in the northwest, is the largest port city in Spain and is home to the best seafood in the country, facing the Atlantic Ocean.
The food culture of the region is characterised by simple cooking techniques that make the most of fresh seafood caught in the Rias coastline, in particular Polbo á feira, a typical dish made of boiled octopus chopped into chunks, dusted with paprika and salt and drizzled with olive oil.
The perfect match for this dish is a local Galician wine. Galicia is known for its white wines, and the refreshing acidity and minerality of Albariño (from Rias Baixas) in particular harmonizes with the iodine flavor of the seafood, enhancing its umami.

Polbo á feira is an octopus dish from the Galicia region of Spain. It is made with paprika powder (smoky paprika), olive oil, rock salt and the umami of octopus, and is characterized by the aroma of paprika and the richness of olive oil. The boiled octopus is surprisingly soft.

[Sake pairing]
This would go well with a slightly dry ginjo-style sake (or a dry junmai ginjo).
The refreshing, not too heavy Ginjo-style sake brings out the delicate flavor of the octopus, the smooth texture harmonizes with the olive oil, and the light aroma is balanced with the smoky aroma of the paprika powder. If you choose a dry, crisp type, the aftertaste will also be refreshing.

②A diverse lineup from the royal palace to the common people ~Madrid~

Madrid, the capital of Spain, is landlocked and far from the sea, but its food culture is incredibly diverse.
Historically, ingredients were collected from all over Spain, and royal cuisine and traditional cuisine for the common people developed here. You can also enjoy a variety of cuisines from both Spain and abroad.

The menu is centered on meat dishes and stews suited to the inland climate. In the harsh winter, people prefer hearty dishes to warm the body.
The most representative dish is Madrid-style Cocido (Cocido madrileño), which is made by simmering meats such as pork, chicken, prosciutto, chorizo, and bacon with beans and vegetables. The stewed ingredients and soup are divided into two or three plates, and the traditional dish allows you to enjoy the soup, vegetables, and meat in a course-like arrangement, with noodles placed in the broth.

Cocido. It is a hearty dish made by simmering chickpeas, beef, pork, chicken, chorizo ​​(spicy sausage), and vegetables (cabbage, potatoes, carrots, etc.) for a long time. The meat has a rich flavor and fat, so a well-structured red wine goes well with it. In particular, Ribera del Duero wines are heavy but also have a sour taste, which helps to tone down the fattiness.

[Sake pairing]
Madrid cuisine is richly seasoned and goes well with sake, which is rich in umami and sweetness. The rich umami of the stewed dish Cocido Madrileño should go well with Yamahai Junmai sake, which has a strong, full-bodied flavor.
The flavor needs to match the volume of the cocido and have a strong rice flavor. Junmai sake has a full-bodied, acidic taste that balances well with the fat of the meat. A slightly aged sake (nutty or umami) will go naturally with the richness of the stewed cocido, so an aged sake would be good.

3. Toledo: an ancient city with a strong historical legacy

In the old town of Toledo, one of the largest historical heritage sites in Europe that remains intact, we ate "Arroz Negro," a dish made with squid ink, squid (or octopus), and rice.
At first glance, it looks similar to seafood paella, but contrary to appearances, it is a delightful dish with a delicate flavor.

Arroz Negro. White rice, garlic, green Cuban pepper, paprika, olive oil, and seafood stock bring out the umami. The black color is squid ink, which enhances the umami of seafood.

[Sake pairing]
A "kimoto" style sake with a light acidity or a "refreshing special junmai or junmai ginjo" would be good.
Squeezing lemon adds a refreshing acidity to the richness and full-bodiedness of the squid ink. For this reason, it goes better with sake that is sharp and has a clean acidity than sake that is originally rich and full-bodied. The natural acidity and umami of the kimoto brewing process blends beautifully with the acidity of the lemon, and doesn't destroy the aftertaste of the squid ink. Alternatively, special junmai or dry junmai ginjo sakes that don't have an overly flashy aroma and are on the refreshing side should go well with this sake.

SAKE and Japanese culture

In addition to a rich food and beverage culture, interest in Japanese culture has been growing in Spain in recent years.
In addition to traditional culture such as flower arranging and bonsai, and sports such as karate and judo, interest in pop culture such as manga, anime, and games, literature, science and technology, etc. is also growing rapidly. As interest in Japanese culture deepens and diversifies, the number of people learning Japanese is also increasing.

In this environment, promotional activities for sake are also becoming more active. Sake breweries from various regions and prefectures in Japan frequently visit Spain, and in May this year, the first sake and food event, "IBERKANPAI," was held in Madrid. Many Spaniards enjoyed the sake with a glass in hand.

Reference IBERKANPAI
https://www.iberkanpai.com/

Interview with the Director of JETRO

During this trip, the author visited the JETRO (Japan External Trade Organization) office in Madrid and spoke with the director, Takaharu Horinouchi, about the current situation and future of sake in Spain.

At the JTERO Madrid office. Director Horinouchi (left) and the author (right)

-Sake and Japanese food are inseparable, but how has Japanese food become popular locally?
Director Horinouchi
"The popularity of Japanese food is steadily increasing, and currently there are about 10 Japanese restaurants run by Japanese people in Madrid, and if you include locally run sushi chains, there are probably as many as 200.
Ramen is also popular and there are chain restaurants, but the latest hot topic is onigiri. At specialty restaurants, they cost 1 euros (about 3 yen) each, about the same price as the everyday bocadillo (a large ham sandwich), but they are very popular among young people. The word "onigiri" has also become localized after seeing characters eating them in Japanese anime and manga.

There is no doubt that the popularity of Japanese food is accelerating among the fashion-conscious Generation Z. But what about other generations?

Director Horinouchi
"Since Iberia resumed direct flights to Japan last fall, the number of Spanish travelers to Japan is expected to increase from 2025 in 2024 to 19. As a result, they will experience various types of Japanese food during their stay in Japan, so the popularity of Japanese food in Spain will undoubtedly grow across generations."

When visiting Japan, you'll naturally want to pair your experience with authentic Japanese food with sake, but wouldn't you also like to enjoy it beforehand?

Director Horinouchi
"In fact, in Madrid there is a popular store called 'Tokyoya' that sells Japanese food, and they also have a sake bar and restaurant called 'Shuwa'. They have a fantastic lineup of sake from all over Japan."

Reference Shuwashuwa
Shuwa Shuwa Restaurante Japonés y Primer Sake Bar de España

Spain is a passionate country, and the popularity of Japanese sake in this country seems to be getting even more intense. Fantastico!

writer:
Fumiaki Kishihara / Sommelier, HBA cocktail advisor. He loves sake and other alcoholic beverages around the world. He has served as brand manager for the world's three major beer brands and Western alcoholic beverages.
32 years of experience in the alcoholic beverage industry both in Japan and overseas, including running a craft brewery in Kyoto. Supports the global expansion of ambitious Japanese alcoholic beverages. Representative of BOONE LLC. National Licensed Guide-Interpreter. Resides in Tokyo.