Ask the sake brewery 2025.08.20

Inheriting tradition and moving towards innovation
Pioneering the future of sake: The efforts of Saito Kou of Saito Sake Brewery

Based on the idea of "blending sake made by different breweries," Sake World has expressed this through the original brand "Assemblage Club," which was jointly developed with three Kyoto breweries, and the original sake-making experience facility "My Sake World." Support is essential for this challenge that transcends the boundaries of breweries. We spoke to some of the people who are actually supporting them.

2025.08.20

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Saito Sake Brewery will cooperate with Sake World by offering a blended sake (Eikun Koto Sennen) at My Sake World, an original sake-making experience facility, and by being one of the breweries that cooperated in the development of Meima no Shizuku, which commemorates the 100th anniversary of the opening of the JRA Kyoto Racecourse.

We spoke to the current head of the company, President Hiroshi Saito, about how the company, which was initially cautious about participating in the assemblage, ultimately decided to do so.

I spoke to this person

Saito Sake Brewery Co., Ltd. 13th Generation President and CEO, Mr. Ko Saito: Profile

Born on February 1990, 2. After studying brewing and business administration at Tokyo University of Agriculture, he joined the company. After gaining experience in production and sales, he will become the representative director in 9.

INDEX

A "newcomer" who switched from a kimono merchant
Going "outside" the sake genre
Even in unorthodox ways, there is a "way"
Between "tradition" and "innovation"

A "newcomer" who switched from a kimono merchant

The Saito family, who run Saito Sake Brewery, known for its fine sake in Fushimi, Kyoto, originally ran a kimono business.
Since the Genroku period, the company has operated under the name "Izutsuya Ihei," dealing in kimonos and clothing, but with the turmoil of the Meiji period, it switched to sake brewing in 1895 (Meiji 28). Compared to many sake breweries that have been in business for hundreds of years, this is a relatively newcomer.

The brands at the time of the company's founding were "Yanagi Masamune" and "Otaka." Later, in 1915 (Taisho 4), the 10th head of the family, Teiichiro, changed the brand to the current flagship brand, "Eikun."

The company was incorporated in 1960 (Showa 35), and moved its headquarters to its current location in 1974 (Showa 49). It built a sake brewery equipped with modern facilities. Since the Heisei era, the company has changed its policy from focusing on ordinary sake to specially designated sake, and the quality of its sake has been highly praised, winning the gold medal at the National New Sake Tasting Competition for 14 consecutive years.

In 2022 (Reiwa 4), Ko Saito will become the 13th President and CEO.

At the reception of the company's office, there is a server where you can enjoy various sakes from Saito Sake Brewery by inserting a coin, as well as a gachapon machine where you can win novelty items as prizes, which entertain visitors every day.

Going "outside" the sake genre

-What initiatives have you undertaken since becoming president?

President Saito (omitted): "In terms of products, we have newly released a sparkling sake. This sake was developed with the expectation that it would be added to a lineup alongside champagne, mainly in French and Italian restaurants, and with price in mind."

▲Eikon SPRKLING SAKE

"Furthermore, starting this spring, we have established a new department specializing in sake brewery tourism. Up until now, brewery tours and the like have been handled by whichever staff member was available at the time, but we felt that in order to get serious about this, we needed a full-time person. The person in charge not only handles brewery tours, but also handles business negotiations with travel agencies. The idea behind both sparkling wine and brewery tours is to go "outside" the genre of "sake."

-What about expanding overseas?

"We've always focused on exports, and currently about 1% of our total sales come from overseas sales channels. Our main trading countries are Canada, Australia, and Hong Kong. This may be a little unusual compared to other sake breweries."

-What do you think about "assemblage"?

"During the COVID-12 pandemic, another company proposed to us to blend sake at our sake brewery in Fushimi. I was in favor of it, but my father (the XNUMXth generation president, Toru), who was the president at the time, was cautious. If the blended sake contained Eikun, the name would naturally be printed on the label when it was sold, but the taste would be completely different. He seemed concerned about this.

For me, I think that blended sake has a theme in the taste of the blended sake, and that it's not that important which sakes are in it. To take it to the extreme, I think people would still buy it even if the names of the brands were hidden. It's an initiative that wouldn't be possible in a single brewery, so I think it's interesting."

-Did you join the company after you became president?

"Yes. I was approached again and agreed on the spot."

-What was your predecessor's opinion?

"The Saito family has a tradition of not interfering once the president retires, and from the moment the new generation takes over, they are left in charge of everything. For example, when my father took over from my grandfather, he asked about the wallpaper in the president's office, and apparently the answer was simply, 'I'll leave it to you.' The current generation decides everything, even the smallest details like that. So I don't know what my father thinks now (laughs)."

-What are your impressions after actually participating?

"I previously tried assembling sake at My Sake World, and was impressed by the new flavor it produced, which was completely different from what we could achieve by blending sake alone. If we were to blend sake using only our own sake, it would probably end up being quite similar. But by bringing together sake breweries with different personalities, a completely new flavor and aroma is born. I think it's a very meaningful initiative."

Even in unorthodox ways, there is a "way"

-Your official X postSo, they are also positive about "new" ways of drinking sake, such as mixing it with carbonated drinks or juice.

"I believe it's fine to drink in a variety of ways depending on your preferences. Some drinking methods may be considered 'unorthodox,' but there is a 'way' to them. For example, whiskey highballs are common in Japan, but rare in the West. This may be a good example of an unorthodox way becoming the 'right way.'

Even with sake, there are opinions that say "Daiginjo should be drunk chilled," but if, for example, Daiginjo is the only sake available in the middle of winter, it will definitely taste better if you drink it warm. The fruity aroma may disappear, but I think it's important to drink it in a way that suits the situation and your preferences.
To begin with, the Daiginjo genre itself didn't exist until about 30 years ago. This is not just limited to sake, but we are now in an era where we must change in order to survive. At this point, we don't know the correct answer, so I feel it is important to continue searching for it."

Between "tradition" and "innovation"

-What is Saito Sake Brewery particular about?

"As a sake brewery in Fushimi, Kyoto, we strive to use ingredients produced in Kyoto whenever possible when making sake. Among these, the sake rice "Iwai," which is only available in Kyoto Prefecture, is an essential ingredient. We also have a strong attachment to Kyoto when selecting ingredients, and we use "Kyoto Yeast," developed by the Kyoto Industrial Technology Research Institute, for some of our brands.

Meanwhile, with the recent rise in rice prices as a backdrop, we are considering using imported rice for some of our brands, such as packaged sake. Most soybeans and wheat are imported, and miso and soy sauce are also made from them. Replacing some of the rice in sake with imported rice could actually lead to increased added value for domestically produced rice. We believe that it is an important initiative to go beyond the conventional framework and reconsider the current situation."

-What does sake mean to Saito Kou?

"There are two. The first is that it is both traditional and innovative. I describe sake as a traditional cultural industry, but it cannot survive by simply preserving the good old ways. Smartphones are the result of a change in the form of letters and telephones, and I believe that sake should also change with the times.

The other is "entertainment." I don't see sake as simply a food or drink. For example, if you spend the whole day at an amusement park, you probably won't drink the same amount of sake as usual at night. This can be seen as a result of competition between another form of entertainment, the amusement park, and sake. Even in the dining scene, even though drinking at home is cheaper, there are a certain number of people who choose izakayas. I think this is because they are looking for entertainment in the form of a space to enjoy sake."

President Saito's smile throughout the interview was striking. He said, "I was able to forge my skills working part-time at Disneyland during my university days." While valuing tradition, he is not afraid to embrace new ideas, and his attitude of seeking to expand the possibilities of sake was evident everywhere. His belief that sake should be enjoyed in more free ways was naturally conveyed through every word he spoke.

"If we don't change, we won't survive"

These words express the determination of the 13th generation head of the family to look ahead to the future and go beyond the boundaries of tradition. After graduating from Tokyo University of Agriculture, he joined the family business as a new graduate, honing his sake brewing and management theories in the "Eikun style." From his appearance, you can sense his unwavering determination to continue into the future.

Here are the Saito Sake Brewery sakes listed on Sake World NFT: