The Sake Rakudo® course is hosted by the Sake Academy (Setagaya-ku, Tokyo), headed by Shirane Atsuko.
The 10-session curriculum aims to "learn about the history and knowledge of sake while becoming a person capable of providing hospitality." The course began in April 2024 and is currently in its second term.
The lecturer will be Uesugi himself, mentioned at the beginning. The lecture will reveal secret stories from the Uesugi family, as well as little-known history and culture, and has been met with rave reviews.

The interview took place on September 16th, and two lectures were held. The first half featured guest Tomonori Shono, the 11th generation owner of Chiba's long-established sake brewery, Iwase Sake Brewery, and covered the brewery's sake brewing and its flagship brand, Iwanoi. In the second half, the school's director, Uesugi, discussed the eating habits of the Edo and Meiji periods, incorporating sake.

(Left) Shono Tomoki, 11th generation owner of Iwase Sake Brewery, is the Chairman and Public Relations Officer of Iwase Sake Brewery. Their signature brand is "Iwanoi." (Center) Shirane Atsuko, Representative Director of the Japanese Sake Academy. After graduating from Keio University, she worked for several companies before becoming Vice President of the NPO Japan Professional Career Counselors Association in 2000. (Right) Uesugi Takahisa, Japanese sake producer and Chairman of the Japanese Food Culture Council. Lecturer in the Sake Rakudo® course. Originally from Tokyo, he graduated from Gakushuin University and worked in the publishing industry before opening a sake salon and sake tasting bar. As the ninth head of the Uesugi Viscount family (Yonezawa Shinden Domain), he has given many history lectures.

First period: The chairman and public relations officer talks about the secrets of "Iwanoi"

"I wanted to share his experiences of the difficulties he faced when he inherited the sake brewery business, and the story of how he revived it from difficult circumstances. I also wanted people to get a glimpse of his current situation, where he is working on sake brewing using various types of rice."

Based on Shirane's thoughts, Shono was invited to be the guest lecturer for the day.

After a brief self-introduction, he spoke about the history of Iwanoi, a famous sake that has gained popularity and has been enjoyed by important people both in Japan and abroad, including former Prime Minister Hayato Ikeda and former French President François Mitterrand.

He then went on to talk about how he took over his mother's family business, Iwase Sake Brewery, about 10 years ago and devoted himself to the business, and how, despite the high profile of Iwanoi as mentioned above, the company fell into financial difficulties for a time and he "even considered selling it."
Shono took over the sake brewery business, which was at rock bottom, and after taking over he has led the business to a V-shaped recovery by focusing on promoting the brewery himself, and he also shared the experiences that led to this.

The course progressed with lively communication between the students, and the topic eventually shifted to Onjuku, Chiba Prefecture, a town in the southern part of the Boso Peninsula where Iwase Sake Brewery is based.
Located near the coast, the groundwater springs from a stratum rich in calcium from seashells and other sources, making it one of the hardest in Japan, and is said to be the source of Iwanoi's sharp, crisp taste and deep richness.

Iwanoi, characterized by its powerful flavor brought about by its geographical environment, is what is known as "manly sake."
As for recommended pairings, Shono says, "It's produced in an area with an abundance of seafood, so it naturally pairs well with sashimi and fish, but it also enhances the flavor of meat dishes and oil-braised dishes like ajillo. It really brings out the appeal of the ingredients, so I'd definitely recommend giving it a try."

Regarding this series of exchanges, Shirane says, "Recently, many people who are interested in pairing sake with food have been taking the course."
It was particularly impressive to see the students deepening their knowledge while actively communicating with the sake breweries.

2nd period: Historical changes in food culture from the Edo period to the postwar period

The second half of the event was a talk by Uesugi titled "The History of Japan and the History of Sake." The theme of the day was "Learning about the Modern Way of Sake from the History of Hospitality."

According to Uesugi, as the times changed from the end of the 16th century, just before the Edo period, to the mid-19th century during the Meiji period, and then into the post-war 20th century, people deepened their knowledge of how to enjoy sake, as well as changes in their diet and lifestyle.

First, Uesugi explained about izakaya culture in the Edo period while showing an illustration of Toshimaya (now Toshimaya Main Branch, founded in 1596), which he said is "often featured in history textbooks." He talked about how liquor stores that served alcohol in front of the store appeared and drew long lines, and how restaurants that served "tsumami" (snacks) also developed around them and thrived.

The connections between the Edo period and the present are interesting, as the ropes that were used to hang the knobs remain as rope curtains today.

Next, we moved on to the topic of the Meiji period, when "civilization and enlightenment" was touted.
At the time, the then Minister of Foreign Affairs, Inoue Kaoru, was promoting a "policy of Westernization," and the Rokumeikan opened in 1883 (Meiji 16) and was used as a social venue to entertain Westerners. In fact, Uesugi's great-grandfather, Uesugi Katsukata (1850-1898), actually received an invitation.
Only the current head of the Uesugi Viscount family, which has existed throughout Japanese history, could share this story. The participants listened with amazement to Uesugi's passionate speech, along with the actual invitation.

This is an invitation to the Rokumeikan that is said to have been received by Uesugi Katsukata and his wife. It lists the name of the then Minister of Foreign Affairs, Inoue Kaoru, and the menu to be served at the dinner that day. It is said that dishes served included "caviar, beef consommé soup, chicken potage, and bite-sized pies." (Photo on the right)

The way we enjoy sake has changed along with the Westernization of our diet up to the present day, but while it was adopted in the Meiji period to coincide with the trend, it did not fit into people's lifestyles. Rokumeikan also closed after only seven years of operation.

~After the lecture~ Impromptu pairing event

After the lecture, there was a social gathering where people could socialize. In addition to popular products from Iwase Brewery such as "Iwanoi" and the "i240 Series," there were also brands that would impress even the most discerning sake connoisseurs, such as (from left) "Matsumori" (Okabe Partnership), "Torihama" (Torihama Brewery), "Goen Dane" (Matsumori Brewery), "Inuneko" (Asahi Brewery), and "Aki Higuma" (Chitose Tsuru).

The toast was of course with Iwanoi. Everyone shared their tastes and favorite brands of sake, deepening their friendships.
As they ate a variety of dishes, enjoyed the different flavors of the sake, and talked about their taste preferences, it was like an impromptu pairing event.

"After the event, some people told us they had become fans," said Shirane.

Uesugi's relationship with Iwanoi began about three years ago, with the creation of Amaterasu, a blend of seven types of sake from Iwase Brewery's secret collection, including an aged sake made in 1969 (Showa 44).
He currently serves as an advisor to the company, and said, "Iwanoi's sake comes in a variety of types, some with a strong acidity and some without, which made it easy to create the flavor."

The Sake Rakudo® course, which concluded with smiles on the faces of the participants, is held once a month in Setagaya Ward, Tokyo.
The 10-part lecture series will begin with a lesson on the history of sake, followed by practical content such as how to make your own original sake and how to market sake.

<Curriculum details>
Japanese history and the history of sake
History of hospitality (etiquette of feudal lords, etiquette of samurai, etiquette between nobles, etiquette at the Imperial Court)
Learn about the history of hospitality and the modern art of sake
Considering how to enjoy modern drinking parties from the history of hospitality
How to Warm Sake: Enjoying the Same Sake at Different Temperatures
Adding alcohol to Junmai sake to make Ginjo (playing with aromas)
Etiquette at banquets
How to eat Japanese food
Etiquette for auspicious items and Japanese items
How to plan an original sake, modern sake marketing

"The participants range from people who want to learn about sake to people who already have extensive knowledge and are certified sake tasters," says Shirane.
By participating in this course, you will be able to appreciate sake on a deeper level. If you want to deepen your knowledge and enjoy authentic sake, why not give it a try?

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♯Sake

Writer: Junichi Shiratori
I'm a freelance writer living in Tokyo, and also work as a certified administrative scrivener. I like spicy drinks, so if you have any recommendations, please let me know.
X: @JunSchwan