While demand for sake continues to decline, young people are making remarkable progress in the fields of brewing and serving sake. A new generation with new sensibilities and flexible ideas is breathing new life into the traditional sake industry.

Located in Fukushima-ku, Osaka, "Nihonshu Potan" is packed with features that allow customers to enjoy sake casually and deeply. In this article, we will introduce the process leading up to the opening of this store and the aspirations of its owner, Yuyoshi Kume.

About the store

The area around JR Fukushima Station is within walking distance of Umeda, the heart of Osaka's Kita district. While retaining the charming atmosphere of a downtown area, the area is known for its many unique gourmet restaurants beloved by locals.

Nihonshu Potan is conveniently located just a 3-minute walk from JR Fukushima Station. There are 15 seats at the counter in a space that evokes a Japanese atmosphere. With the motto "Enjoy sake in a casual way," you can enjoy around 10 types of sake and small dishes. It has gained popularity as a place where you can casually enjoy a selection of sake from all over the country.

The most popular menu item at the store is "Omasake" (3,600 yen including tax), which allows you to enjoy five types of sake in 45ml each. After listening to the customer's preferences, the staff will recommend the brand they are looking for, and you can enjoy it at your leisure while listening to the story behind it.

It is a place where you can discover sake, with a wide range of varieties available, from flavors that even beginners can enjoy to special brands that will impress connoisseurs.

Traveling around the world made me realize the wonder of Japanese food

-Please tell us how you got into the sake business.

Kume (omitted): "Ever since I was a child, I have been more attracted to overseas countries than to domestic ones, so during my university years I had the opportunity to travel across America and around the world. There I was reminded of the greatness of Japan, and in particular the strength of its food.

I had always wanted to be a chef, but at the same time, I wanted to work hard at a venture company. After much deliberation, I ended up working at the regional revitalization accommodation facility "Sekai Hotel Osaka Fuse," where I served as manager for five years.

While focusing on regional revitalization, I learned about the issues surrounding cities at risk of disappearing, and I began to feel that if we continued like this, we wouldn't make it in time. Various players are trying to revitalize their regions, but it's really difficult to translate that into major success. When I thought about how to put the charm of a region into words and communicate it to the fullest extent possible, and then attract people from all over, and what could act as a catalyst, I thought there was no other option than sake. The main reason I chose sake is that it can be appealing both as a form of Japanese culture and as entertainment."

-Have you always liked sake?

“I liked alcohol, but I wasn’t particularly interested in sake. I was interested in the history and production of gin, and it was a genre I liked, including domestic gin.

However, I discovered the deliciousness of sake when I visited Toyama Prefecture several times on business trips while working at a hotel. At first, I thought, "It tastes so much like sake..." but as I tried various brands, I came to understand the range of its aroma and flavor.

I was also shocked by the "Juyondai Banko" I received at a party when an acquaintance of mine opened a restaurant. I thought that there was potential for it to sell even at this price range, and that the depth of expression that the sake genre possesses is still not well known, so I decided to take on the challenge. It's like sake has become a hit within the framework of regional revitalization.

Also, there is a sake brewery in Kawachinagano City, Osaka Prefecture (※), where I was born, and I remember when I was a child, we would gather people I knew from the brewery and hold something like a public viewing of the Japanese national soccer team. The kids would drink juice, and the adults would watch the game while drinking sake (laughs), so I think I was not far removed from sake from the beginning."

*This region is historically famous for Amano Sake, a representative example of monk sake made by monks at temples since the Heian period, from Kongoji Temple on Mount Amano. Another example is Bodaisen, made at Shoryakuji Temple on Mount Bodai in Nara City, Nara Prefecture.

He will train at a local sake brewery for six months

-It's interesting that you've shifted from the accommodation industry to the food and beverage industry.

"I had a vague feeling that I wanted to be someone who could contribute to Japan, so I was considering a sake brewery tourism business that combined with the accommodation industry, as well as other business formats such as trading as a buyer. While doing so, I visited several sake bars that I had seen featured in magazines aimed at inbound tourists in Tokyo and Osaka. I often felt that the main focus of most of them was the owner's preferences and way of speaking, so one of the reasons I thought it might be interesting to run a bar with the concept of sake as the main focus."

"In addition, although the volume of sake exports is currently increasing, it's unclear whether the brands being delivered have the aroma and flavor desired in each country. For example, we are currently exporting to France, but because it is sweet, it may actually be well-received in Vietnam. The second reason is that we wanted to have a laboratory that accumulates this kind of data, and also an entertainment facility where people can experience sake, which is part of Japanese culture."

-How did you learn about sake?

"While working on opening the store, I also worked on sake brewing at the local Saijo Limited Partnership Company for about six months. I considered getting a qualification, but I had connections with a local sake brewery, and I thought that practical experience would be the most beneficial, so I studied at the brewery."

A unique event that will change your perception of sake

- "Masked Sake Stealing Parties," where people have fun hiding the brand of alcohol, are becoming a hot topic on social media.

"I think there are already events where sake is tasted blind, but I get the impression that most of them attract people who are interested in guessing the right answer. The Masked Sake Toukai is an event that aims to make blind tasting more entertaining. When you check the brand, you'll not only rediscover that you really liked this flavor, but you might also realize that the brand is what influences you. I hope that this will serve as a souvenir from the event and change people's perceptions of sake."

- "Hakoiri Mushume" is also interesting.

"This is an event where we gather and offer sake that is only available in boxes. Even small regional breweries sell daiginjo sake such as tobetori in paulownia wood boxes for around 5,000 to 7,000 yen per 480ml bottle. All of them are wonderfully made, but the hurdle to purchasing them is inevitably high. We thought it would be interesting to have a plan where you can enjoy small amounts of these brands, so we are running this event in reference to the word 'boxed daughter'."

-What is the customer base like?

"Of the 15 seats at the counter, about 12 are occupied by people who love sake. The remaining three seats are often occupied by people who have recently started drinking sake. I'm really grateful for this."

-What kinds of brands are offered at "Omasake" (3,600 yen including tax)?

"You can enjoy five 45ml varieties, each accompanied by explanations from the staff. Because of the price, many of the brands are high-grade, but this is very satisfying for people who don't usually drink sake, or those who come as an introduction to the bar. Many customers leave it up to us to choose the brand."

-Do all your staff like sake?

"That's right. We have staff who love sake and even go on tours of sake breweries on their days off."

-What are the three brands that you recommend today?

"These are Abe Farm Project Noda (left) from Abe Brewery in Niigata Prefecture, Amefuri KASUMI (center) from Yoshikawa Brewery in Kanagawa Prefecture, and Maison Aoi Untitled 06 (right) from Aoi Brewery in Niigata Prefecture."

A job that future children will think is "cool"

-What is the origin of the store name "Potan"?

"I wanted to use a word that has no meaning in English, and I also wanted to use an expression that is distinctly Japanese. I heard a sake brewer say, 'The moment the first drop drips from the bag-pressed sake is the moment I'm glad I'm making sake,' so I came up with the name 'Potan,' which evokes the image of a single drop falling."

-Please tell us about your future prospects.

"I'm thinking about holding events where we can invite a rakugo performer to sit at the center of the counter. There's also talk of collaborating with a sushi restaurant, so I hope people will enjoy all sorts of things. I'm still single, but I'd like my children in the future to think, 'My dad had a cool job.'"

Kume-san had his sights set on overseas markets during his childhood, but after traveling around the world, he rediscovered the charms of Japan and became a driving force behind spreading sake culture. As a member of the "digital native" generation, with instant access to information from around the world, it is striking that he has once again turned his attention inward.

All three recommended brands are low in alcohol, and their light, refreshing flavors are attracting new sake fans. It feels like the technological innovations of sake brewers are also changing the mindset of those who serve sake. This trend is sure to continue accelerating in the future.

How will Kume, who hails from Kawachinagano City, the birthplace of "Amanozake," a monk's sake that has made its mark in the history of sake, foster sake culture in Osaka? We look forward to seeing what the future holds for "Potan" and Kume.

Writer: Yuki Arai
Born in Shiga Prefecture, currently living in Kyoto City
A freelance writer who conveys the culture and stories of sake. After graduating from university, he got a job at a liquor store in Kyoto, then worked in sales at a food manufacturer before going independent.
JSA SAKE DIPLOMA, Wine Expert, SSI Certified Sake Master, Sake Studies Instructor