In addition to supporting the export of domestically produced alcoholic beverages around the world, Taizamurai Co., Ltd. is also engaged in educational activities overseas, producing videos specializing in alcoholic beverages, and running domestic communities in order to convey the cultural value of Japan.
During this visit, we were welcomed by the company's representative, Kaori Yukimatsu, and her long-time sales and marketing manager, Nori Ito.
The interview, which was conducted in a relaxed atmosphere from start to finish, was filled with passionate thoughts about "national sake," which has now been designated a World Cultural Heritage site.

Taiji Co., Ltd. office with a photography studio (registered headquarters is located elsewhere)

The three-legged race that began in Canada

Kishihara:
Please tell us how you started the company and how you two met.

Yukimatsu:
After working for a trading company dealing in children's clothing, I moved to Hong Kong at the age of 23 and worked as a cabin attendant for Cathay Pacific Airways.
Eventually, I began to want to support breweries in my hometown of Oita, and that's where I am today. I didn't know much about alcohol originally, but I learned about it from an expert in Singapore who was the first to introduce sake to the local market.

I got in touch with him and we toured around 200 restaurants together over two years, which was the origin of the company. I visited breweries all over the country and gained experience by being shown their operations. After that, in collaboration with JETRO, we exhibited products from six shochu breweries in my hometown of Oita in Hong Kong.

Ito:
I lived in Canada until 2021, primarily based in Toronto, but from 2014 to 2017 I worked in sales and marketing for a liquor company in Ontario.

Before moving to Canada, I worked at Apple, where rather than just telling you the specs and features of their products, they told you the "story" of how they would make your life more exciting.
The same goes for alcohol. The people who bought the "NAMASAKE" (unpasteurized sake) we sold at the time were those who resonated with the story behind the product. People tend to think that they are paying for the specifications, but in fact, it is the story that is important to customers.

This is true not only for sake sold in Canada, but also for sake sold in California (USA), and I believe that rather than information about which brewery it is from, it is more valuable to convey the background of who is making it and what their thoughts are, and what kind of attention the master brewer pays.

It was during this time that we happened to meet at an exhibition in Canada. We hit it off as we discussed our respective passions for sake, and have continued to do so ever since.

President Kaori Yukimatsu (left) and Nori Ito (right) in the company's photography studio

For whom is sake brewing?

Kishihara:
On Taiji's website, there are phrases such as "artisanal skills," "regional history," and "the value of every drop," which emphasizes that the local climate and history are deeply connected to sake brewing.

Yukimatsu:
Our business is to support sake breweries so that they can export their products safely. We have traveled to areas that are not visited by tourists, such as Fukushima after the Great East Japan Earthquake, and have worked in cooperation with local sake breweries.
Some people overseas say Fukushima sake is "unwanted," while others praise it as "great sake." It's gradually becoming more accepted, but looking back, it's been a long journey.

As I traveled around the country visiting breweries, I had many opportunities to hear unforgettable stories from the brewers.

For example, I heard from Mr. Murafuji of Izumo Itakura Sake Brewery that he "makes sake while praying to the gods."
In marketing, they say they are targeting women in their 30s living in cities, but that's not the case - they are made as an offering to God. That's why I felt that the makers work so seriously and without compromise.

In Japan, shrines and alcohol have historically been considered a pair, and this spirituality continues to this day.
We understand the preciousness of rice, bring it to its best, and brew sake as an offering. I believe that sake has deep value precisely because it is imbued with such feelings.

"Shochu" Another National Alcohol

Kishihara:
You're also focusing on shochu. On your official YouTube channel, "Sip of Japan," two Canadian men were drinking shochu and seemed to be having fun, saying, "It's different from sake and it's interesting!"
However, the image of shochu as a drink to be enjoyed with meals has not yet been established, making it difficult to suggest how to drink it.

Yukimatsu:
Furthermore, shochu is not exclusive to Japan; it is also produced in Taiwan, Vietnam, and Korea (Soju). This poses the issue of country of origin labeling and licensing. Liquor taxes and licensing fees are also high, making it difficult to sell overseas.
In Japan, shochu has gained acceptance due to its affordable price and is very easy to sell, but overseas it is expensive and only a limited number of stores can sell it. Like wine and whiskey, the tax system varies depending on the alcohol content, so the challenge is whether shochu can be included in that system.

Ito:
For example, it's only recently that wine and beer have become available in Canadian supermarkets; before that, wine was only available at specialty stores. While efforts have been made to sell sake on the same shelves as wine by labeling it as "rice wine," the reality is that it is not currently available in supermarkets.

To purchase shochu, you need to go to a specialty store like the LCBO (Liquor Wholesalers Corporation), just like whiskey, and there are only a limited number of places where it is sold. The price per bottle is high, making it even harder to obtain than sake.
Overseas, there is not much difference between 25% and 40% alcohol, and in fact 40% tends to be preferred. However, the liquor tax increases with the alcohol content, so unless the product has a very strong appeal or unique character, it will be difficult to sell.

Yukimatsu:
Soba shochu and other products are highly rated for the unique ingredients, and exports to the Netherlands are actually growing. Up until now, there haven't been many opportunities, but shochu has great potential for growth overseas in the future, so it's an area we should focus on alongside sake.

While many major sake brands have expanded overseas, many shochu breweries have yet to do so. Despite the existence of excellent shochu, such as Nagano's soba shochu, the value of this shochu is not being fully communicated, which is a challenge.

Best-selling shochu has undergone advanced technological processing, such as changing the molecular structure through ion exchange to create a clean taste. On the other hand, what was the original form of Oita shochu? It was made using traditional methods, with almost no filtering, koji being made by hand, and stills being made of wood.
This kind of shochu is so delicious that it leaves an impression on the mind. We have a strong desire to expand the possibilities of shochu by commercializing it in a new form.
Shochu, without being diluted with water, is powerful and packed with aroma and flavor complexity, giving it an appeal never before seen. I want to break the conventional notion of shochu and present new value as a distilled spirit.

There are various Kyushu sakes in the studio

Kyushu, Japan's world-famous sake-making island

Kishihara:
I also work as an interpreter guide, and the other day I guided a guest from the United States who loves alcohol around the three prefectures of Fukuoka, Kumamoto, and Kagoshima.
They had already been to Japan 7-8 times and had a wealth of knowledge about sake, having visited sake breweries, but this was their first time in Kyushu and they were very interested in shochu. They enjoyed the experience of visiting breweries and stores and trying the wide variety of shochu.

Yukimatsu:
The island of Kyushu is truly an amazing place, and ever since I started working here, I've felt that shochu is the best distilled spirit in the world.

Even with regulations and alcohol content limits, Kyushu has the potential to promote shochu to the world. The whole of Kyushu is a world-class distilled spirits production region.
We are currently working on creating products that communicate the goodness of shochu. There are many challenges ahead, but we hope to communicate its value by showing the prototype. Next year will mark 10 years since we started our business, but until now we have had few opportunities to export shochu, so we would like to start by conveying how wonderful shochu is.

Kishihara:
Specifically, what kind of product is it?

Yukimatsu:
We are working with Kotegawa Shuzo to launch a completely new brand. It is a product that completely removes the concept of shochu. The brewery asked us to add a little water, but we continued to discuss the matter and asked them to serve it without adding a single drop of water.
Some people say that adding water brings out a mellower flavor, but I have a strong desire to bring out the "original" flavor, and I want to create a product that condenses the goodness of Oita's barley shochu. I want people to first understand the original shochu, and then experience the difference with water added, which I hope will give them a "shock."

The "Origin" and "Aging" of Shochu

At this point, it was time for shochu tasting by age group.

Yukimatsu & Ito:
Shochu is a distilled alcoholic beverage that changes in flavor over time. Why not try experiencing the difference in taste between three different ages?
This is a product that has been aged in an enamel tank. Since the product does not develop any color in the enamel tank, it is impossible to tell the degree of aging just by looking at it. Some products may develop a color as a result of aging, but this is due to the influence of the wood of the barrel or the jar, and is not necessarily an indicator of quality.

From the left, three samples of raw spirits from different years: 2006, 1992, and 1987

Kishihara:
Each one is unique and has a completely different aroma, with a sweet potato-like scent, a refreshing apple-like scent, and even a hint of citrus. I like the middle one (1992) the best, which is both powerful and balanced, with a soft, lingering scent of dried leaves that really stands out.

Yukimatsu:
This shochu is made using barley koji instead of rice koji, and is made with a very pure brew that relies on the flavor of the barley of each year. The barley gives off floral and raspberry notes, and the aroma changes with age, which is also appealing. It has a strong desire to break the ceiling of shochu. Although it is over 30 years old, it tastes like the "juice of the earth."

Kishihara:
Oita's barley shochu is often refreshing, sophisticated, and pairs well with food. However, during the past shochu boom, it was stereotyped as being "refreshing and easy to drink," which I thought was a shame. These samples are packed with complex flavors, truly worthy of being called "spirits." The thick, soft texture and bursting aromas make for an interesting experience.

Yukimatsu:
It's a shame that shochu is inherently powerful and yet this strength isn't fully conveyed.
Some breweries age their strong shochu in barrels, which is also very delicious. Overseas buyers sometimes visit the breweries and are so impressed that they say they want to buy the whole company.

Kishihara:
There is much talk about the mystique of barrel aging in whiskey, but the complexity of koji adds another dimension of appeal. The way of enjoying the aging process is also different, and it's interesting that instead of aging in wooden barrels or earthenware jars, whiskey is aged in enamel tanks using only the raw liquor.

Yukimatsu:
The expected price for this shochu is several tens of thousands of yen for 720ml, but considering the value of having been aged for over 30 years, it is a very reasonable price. If the spirit and story resonate with people, I think the price will follow.

Ito:
Even if the price is high, if a business model can be established in which enthusiastic fans support the product, I feel that it is better to increase the value of a small quantity and make a profit, rather than producing a large quantity and making a profit.

Yukimatsu:
Maintenance of wooden distillers also requires a budget, and financial resources are needed to continue producing high-quality products. If you are particular about quality, you need to set a price that reflects that.
However, it is difficult for brewers to put the value of their products into words, so they need someone to translate and communicate. Nori's job is to act as a bridge between these two, telling the story in words and letting people experience it by drinking it.

Kishihara:
Many people don't know that distillation is done using steam, so showing them the actual process on film should make them think, "I see." Good visuals make people want to drink it more, increasing its appeal as a luxury item. Films are "comprehensive art" that combines images, music, actors, and dialogue, and the same is true for alcohol.

Ito:
In running Taiji's business, not only is the quality of the products important, but also the way they are presented in photos, videos, on the website, etc. Kaori's father has been taking photos for many years, so the studio has a well-equipped production environment.
Furthermore, a good website is also necessary to reach people overseas. We will continue to provide such support, including English support, to promote the value of sake breweries and their sake.

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So far, we have been talking about "national alcoholic beverages," including shochu.
Taiji, which first met in Canada and is now based in Kyushu, the gateway to the world, naturally has an outward-looking outlook. It's also noteworthy that the company has developed its business with a clear understanding of the "stories" of each sake and shochu brewery. The company's love for sake is also evident, with original sake now available in its official online store.

Taizamurai's original sake "KABOSHU & UMESHU" is characterized by its fresh and refined sweetness.

One of the things that Yukimatsu and Ito, the leaders of Taiji, are currently focusing on is "communication." In the second part of this article, we asked them about this in more detail.

writer:
Fumiaki Kishihara / Sommelier, HBA cocktail advisor. He loves sake and other alcoholic beverages around the world. He has served as brand manager for the world's three major beer brands and Western alcoholic beverages.
32 years of experience in the alcoholic beverage industry both in Japan and overseas, including running a craft brewery in Kyoto. Supports the global expansion of ambitious Japanese alcoholic beverages. Representative of BOONE LLC. National Licensed Guide-Interpreter. Resides in Tokyo.