As we discussed in episodes 14 and 15 of this series, "Jozo - About pressing the mash into sake and sake lees," there is a process called "Jozo." Moromi goes through several processes and gradually becomes sake. This time, we will talk about the different names used depending on the order in which it is made into sake.

Previous article: [Tell me what you can't ask now!? Series 22]Glass bottles - washing, bottling, and corking -

This person will explain

Toji shop owner/producer Eri Nakano

Profile

In 1995, he opened the Japanese sake bar "Janapese Refined Sake Bar Tojiya" in Tenjinbashisuji, Osaka. He is active in various fields as a sake critic, seminar lecturer, and lyricist.

● Rough running
Whether using a tank or an automatic press, no pressure is applied at the beginning of squeezing, and the mash is allowed to use its own weight to push the liquid through the holes in the sake bag or filter cloth. The first sake to flow out in this way is called "arahashiri," or "first squeezed wort." This is the equivalent of the first squeezed wort in beer.
It is a most natural sake, impeccably fresh and allowing you to strongly sense the potential of the moromi.

The term "arahashiri" seems to express the powerful and primitive state of things, with "arah" (rough) and the way things flow out like a dam has burst, with "hashiru" (running).
The word "shinhashiri," which has the same pronunciation, is used as a seasonal word for late autumn and means newly made sake, and is used in seasonal greetings in haiku and letters.

● Naka-kumi (naka-tori/naka-tare)
After Arahashiri comes the "Nakakumi" process. Also known as "Nakatori" or "Nakadare," this is the part where the sake is squeezed by manipulating the pressure, and this part accounts for the majority of the sake squeezed in one press.
This part is considered to have an excellent balance of aroma and flavor, and many sake breweries enter only this part in sake tasting competitions.
During the pressing process, changes occur over time. The wildness subsides, the microorganisms that had been competing with each other begin to adapt, and the sake that is born at this stage clearly shows the hidden potential of the mash.

The character "chu" can be seen in all of the names because it is the middle part of the mash and the center of the tank.
The next word depends on the perspective from which you view this process. From the perspective of the worker, it would be "taking" or "drawing." If you look at the dripping liquid objectively, it would be "dripping."

● Blame
Finally, apply strong pressure to squeeze out all the liquid. Applying pressure means punishing.
The sake is squeezed out with great pressure, resulting in a rich, multi-layered flavor, and the organic acids that make up the sake seem to surge into your taste buds.
Sake that is squeezed out under intense pressure towards the end of the pressing process, when the amount of liquid in the mash is low, is sometimes described negatively as having a lot of impurities or a bitter taste, but this "sekime" sake, with its five flavors - sweet, dry, sour, astringent and bitter - all competing with each other, is not only enjoyable on its own, but is also interesting as a drink with food. In the past, bitterness was one of the factors that lowered a sake's rating, but now it is seen as an important element that makes up the sake.

● From where to where?
There is no set amount for each, so it is up to the brewer's discretion to decide that this is the rough run, from here on it is the middle draw (nakatori/nakadare), and from here on it is the simmering.

● Which one do you like? I like them all!
Each drink that is produced in this order has its own merits. If you ask me which one is my favorite... I would say I like them all!
There are also some that are blended and shipped after being pressed in stages.

Previous article: [Tell me what you can't ask now!? Series 22]Glass bottles - washing, bottling, and corking -