What does "terroir" mean?

Terroir is originally a term related to wine. It refers to the influence that the natural environment of a particular region, such as the climate, soil, and topography, has on the product. The quality of wine depends on the quality of the grapes used as raw materials, and in turn on the land, so terroir is very important.

Sake begins to pay more attention to terroir

So what about sake? The raw material rice is a grain, so it is easy to transport, and it can be purchased from famous producing areas such as Yamada Nishiki in the Special A district. Also, because the quality of sake depends largely on the skill of the brewer, terroir has rarely been discussed like it has been with wine.

One of the reasons why terroir has started to attract attention in the world of sake is the growing awareness of the environment. More and more sake breweries are trying to use rice unique to the region that is suitable for sake brewing and cooperate with local contract farmers to ensure the sustainability of agriculture. Furthermore, some sake breweries may aim to differentiate themselves from others and brand their sake by highlighting their regional characteristics.

The individuality of the water is the individuality of the sake

The elements of terroir in sake include water, rice, and climate. The brewing water is particularly important, and it is said that "where there is good water, there is good sake." The water used in brewing is often spring water or other water that is rooted in the land, and the characteristics of the water have a great impact on the characteristics of the sake. It is well known that even in the same sake-producing region, the mineral-rich hard water of Nada, Hyogo, makes it easier for yeast to ferment and produces a stronger sake, while the soft water of Fushimi, Kyoto, produces a gentler, mellower sake.

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In terms of climate, cooler regions tend to have light and refreshing sake, while warmer regions tend to have richer and fuller flavors, so the balance with local cuisine is also not to be missed.

A sake brewery that handles everything from rice cultivation to sake brewing

Going one step further, some sake breweries are now involved in everything from rice cultivation to sake brewing. In 2019, the "Farming! Sake Breweries Association" was launched, with over 20 sake breweries, including Akishika Sake Brewery in Osaka, joining the group and working hard to hone their skills. Recently, the term "domaine-ization of sake," following the example of wine, has become popular, just like terroir.

Japanese sake is full of individuality, born from a combination of the local climate, the brewer's techniques, and other elements. Why not sip your drink tonight while thinking of the scenery of the sake brewery where it was made?

Writer/Sake Master Eriko Fujita
Expand your world to a sake specialty store in Osaka and encounter a variety of sake and sake breweries. Favorite sakes are Akishika, Ohgi, and others.
Other than drinking, my hobbies include collecting minerals and raising swallowtail butterflies.

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